Skin Care Glossary

Not sure what all that jargon is about under the ingredients label at the back of your (cosmetic) product packaging?

Find out here.

Thank you, Allure.com.

Miss B

Before You Buy That Product...

With so many skin care brands available, it can be slightly overwhelming trying to find THE ONE just for you. Not everyone is going to lose their minds with excitement at the thought of getting great products. But I do! I went through almost every product available at Clicks (I'm convinced) in the space of 2 years, and I was disappointed over and over and over and over again. But I'm older and wiser now. Even if only slightly. Hmmm.

I would recommend professional skin care products that one can only purchase from trained professionals at salons, spas, etc over something you can just get at PnP or Clicks, that you think is what you need. Not only because I am a skin care therapist, but also because before I was a trained professional, I was lost and desperate for clear, healthy skin. I suffered from acne. And couldn't afford to go to a dermatologist and buy high-end cosmeceuticals or whatever. Yes, I called it whatever...back then...when I was inexperienced. Problem is, there's no-one at your local Clicks, PnP, etc to analyse your skin and guide you from there. You know you have oily skin, so why wouldn't Product X (available at your local PnP), which is for oily skin types, work for you? Because Product X, perhaps, did not take into consideration your skin condition. You could have oily but dehydrated skin, or oily but sensitive skin. What then? What if Product X manufacturers did not take that into consideration? Use it anyway and hope for the best? Hope that it doesn't worsen your dehydration or sensitivity? Waste of time and money. Having said that, I also understand that not everyone can afford most professional products. Note that not all are as expensive as you may assume. Either way, you HAVE TO know what you're getting into. More importantly, KNOW your skin and know what you want for your skin. A skincare consultant or therapist can help with this.

If you're lucky enough to go for regular facials, click here for advice about taking advantage and making the best of your facial before you purchase products.

For everyone else, that may not be so lucky... I feel your pain.


Many salons/spas offer free skin analyses and/or consultation, so enquire at one. You've got nothing to lose. An independent consultant, however, may charge a fee...but there'll be less (if any) pressure to book a facial and/or buy products from him/her, as he/she may not offer physical treatments and retail products.

Once your skin analysis is complete, you should know your skin type, skin condition and what your skin needs, at least.

He/She will then (most probably) recommend an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He/She should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. If you're still unsure after he/she has explained, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the consultant suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for YOU to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the consultant isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort. Also, may products are very similar, so best to have the RIGHT one.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your consultant know and ask if he/she can recommend something else within your budget. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your consultant know that you already have xyz products (that may have done nothing for you) and ask if you're using them correctly. If possible, take your current products along to your consultation. That way, the consultant can see what you've got and should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime or correct it. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, but they may be in conflict with each other and therefore, you're not getting (good) results. Remember sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT! It should always be included. Yes, YOU HAVE TO!

You should (at least) know this before you purchase:

1. Why THAT product (or those products).
2. When to use the product
3. How often to use it e.g. morning and night, weekly, 2x weekly, etc
4. How to use/apply/remove it
5. When it expires, or how to know when it expires. Most packaging should tell you when, after opening, it should be chucked away.

Products "not working"?
Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the consultant and let him/her know. If you've had an obvious reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that the consultant can see the reaction and determine the cause. Take your products with you, so he/she can check it, to make sure it's not expired, and that it doesn't look/smell funny. If the problem is with the actual product you have, return it to the place of purchase. They should replace your products or refund you.

The consultant should be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin. You may have to get additional, milder,  products to help with this. Damage control.

If your product is not the cause and the consultant is not sure, and had never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist.

If the consultant was unable to solve the problem, and hasn't followed up within a week since you informed him/her about your reaction, find a new one. Email me. Good consultants will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your consultant as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction.

Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B

Facial anytime soon?

Picture: www.lemigroup.com

If you're fortunate enough to be able to go for regular facials, or even if you receive a gift card for a facial, take advantage of this time to ASK questions about your skin/concerns. Before you book your facial, call the salon/spa, and summarize your concerns and ask what facial treatment the skincare therapist would suggest FOR YOUR particular skincare concerns. Sometimes, the therapist (especially a great one) will need more information and suggest you make the appointment and discuss your concerns in person, when he/she can have a look at your skin, and better understand. Also, know that what you think is a problem may not be, and vice versa. For example, you may think your main problem is fine lines/potential wrinkles/ageing. This could, in fact, be as a result of skin dehydration or dryness, and once you solve the dryness/dehydration, your fine lines may not be as apparent. Very loose example.

Firstly, your therapist should use a new/unused pair of facial sponges on your face. He/She should open it in front of you. If the salon/spa uses gloves, the gloves should be clean and dry. If it's not, it's likely you'll be able to smell that it isn't. I hope this never happens to you. Cringe. Don't be afraid to ask if the implements being used on you are clean. It is your right. I won't go into detail about sequence/method/procedure as each skincare brand have their own (sometimes very unique) way of doing things, which will be different from the next. Every facial, however, should include a skin analysis, after cleansing or exfoliation. It's more likely to be just after cleansing, so that the therapist can choose the right exfoliation method/product for you. Your eyes should be closed or covered and there'll be a bright light above your face. There'll also be a lot of facial touching, poking and pinching. Not nearly as bad as I'm making it sound. :-) During this time, your therapist should also be asking you a lot of questions about your skin: what you currently use, your diet, lifestyle questions, experiences with products, medication (even if you have filled this out on the consultation/indemnity form). It is important to give the therapist as much information as possible. Everything is important. If you're on some form of contraception, tell him/her. Even "small" things like vitamins and supplements. If you know the names/brands of the supplements and other medications, write them down on your consultation card before your treatment. If there isn't an allocated space for it, write it anywhere (even on the back) of the form. Vitamin A, retinoids, AHA  treatments, and/or peels are especially important, along with ANY allergies!

This is an elaborate example of a client card. Every spa/salon should have one. It won't always be this elaborate, but you should still include as much info as possible.

And the consultant/therapist will fill in the following during your skin analysis:

And you're more than welcome to ask her about it, or to explain it to you. Note: Not all spas/salons have the same consultation cards. This is just an example.

Throughout your facial, the therapist should be telling you about what she is putting on your face, and how it'll benefit your skin. If you go for regular facials, or are on a specific treatment plan, it's likely that the therapist may only do this once, as it will be the same the next time. And the next and the next. This doesn't mean you shouldn't ask if you don't remember, or are unsure. If you "just want to relax" and enjoy your facial with minimal talking and questions from your therapist, let him/her know before the treatment starts. So, when he/she takes you to the treatment room, let her know then, or just before he/she starts. Please, understand that sometimes, the therapist NEEDS to ask/tell you important things during the treatment. He/She won't, however, talk during a facial massage. He/She may just check if the pressure is okay, but that's it.

You should speak up, should you experience any of the following at any point:

• Tingling
• Burning
• Itching
• Intense pulling (unless you're having a firming/decreasing treatment. Many clay masks tend to feel like they're "pulling" a little.) Either way, if it's uncomfortable, let the therapist know.
• Too much pressure during massage. (Everyone is different.Some people prefer lighter/harder massage pressure on their decolletage and face.)

If you're claustrophobic, please indicate this at the beginning of the treatment, so that the therapist knows to avoid certain methods and products.

At the end of the treatment (if it wasn't done throughout/during the treatment), the therapist will recommend (retail) products for home use. It will most probably be an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He or she should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. Your therapist should be able to explain EVERYTHING to you. If you're still unsure, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the therapist suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for you to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the therapist isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your therapist know. Some products can be expensive, and there's nothing wrong with not being able to afford/purchase these products. If you're (still) embarrassed that you cannot afford the recommended home care products (or are just not interested), just simply say that you're not interested. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your therapist know that you already have products. If you're still interested in home care, she should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, so ask about a suitable exfoliator, mask and/or sunscreen. Sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT!

Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the salon/spa and let them know. If you've had a reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that they can see the reaction and determine the cause. They should either replace your products, or refund you. They should also be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin, especially if they're not replacing your products with others that may help the situation. If they're not sure, and have never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist. If they were unable to solve the problem, and haven't followed up since you informed them about your reaction, find a new salon/spa, or a new therapist. A good therapist/spa/salon will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your therapist/salon/spa as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction. Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B