A Tan is a Scar...

A natural/UV-induced tan, that is.

thechive.com

I don't hate the sun, I just encourage safe tanning and more importantly UV-protection. The only safe way to tan is from a bottle or tube. Mostly true. So it grates me a little when I see people posting their tan progression pics as they lay in the sun for hours on the beach or next to the pool. Nice hipbones and knees, though. Thanks for that.

I can't tell you what to do or not to do, but I hope this post will at least explain my angst about natural/UV tanning, and why I go all out to protect myself from the sun's harmful UV radiation, and why you should do the same.

UV rays from the sun can penetrate your skin. Because there a different types, with different wavelengths, they reach different levels of cellular activity. You develop a tan because skin cells signal that they are being/have been hurt. In response to this, more melanin is produced by your melanocytes, in the stratum germinativum* and pushed to the upper layers of the skin, producing a tan. It's like when something goes into your eye, your eyes tear. That is your eye's defence mechanism to protect the structures in/of the eye. The same goes with white blood cells. White blood cell count increases when an infection is present because phagocytes (type of white blood cell) engulf and destroy harmful microorganisms in your body. Therefore, when your white blood cell count is high, doctors know that there is something wrong and an infection is present...something is harming your body.

DNA is part of all the cells in your body. DNA makes up the genes. Because UV rays can penetrate your skin cells, they can affect the cell DNA whose responsibility it is to manage cell function. Therefore, your cell functions are now distorted and damaged, sometimes depleted. As the cells develop, it has to go through a process of cell division. These abnormal cells, now with damaged DNA (which replicates), will be multiplying creating a mutation. This is how skin cancer starts/progresses.

If you think that you barely spend enough time outdoors to experience this kind of damage from the sun, think again. You may be in your car for most of the day. Your car is not immune to UV radiation. Your windows do not filter UV(A) rays, which is why an increased risk in skin cancer has been linked to driving. If you get the slightest tan, from sun exposure no matter how you get it: driving, getting fresh air, walking from your car to the entrance of some place, hanging up the washing, picking herbs from your cute little herb garden, damage has ALREADY been done. A tan is a defence mechanism to try and protect your skin/cells from further damage. Ten minutes of sun on unprotected skin daily is enough for Vitamin D production. And this can be on your hand or foot. No need to go completely unprotected. [She says with trepidation.]

Still not convinced?

Huffington Post 

Meet Bill McElligott, 69, a truck driver in Canada. 28 years of driving on the job has caused this very obvious unilateral dermatoheliosis. Sure, you're not a truck driver and maybe you're not a rep of sorts, spending more than half of your day in a vehicle on the road, but why put your poor skin cells (who are just trying to do their job) through this kind of damage? Why put your health at risk?

So now that you know this, you'll need to protect yourself. You can have a look at a post I did last year about being sun smart and protecting yourself, here. Many of those facts still apply today. Beautysouthafrica.com did a very interesting and informative update on SA's sunscreen situation. And CANSA have released a list of COLIPA (European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association) compliant sunscreens that are available in South Africa, here.

Now be good to yourself, your skin and your health.

Miss B

*Also known as the basal layer. The deepest layer of the epidermis.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime

Retails for about R405.
Pic from kerastase.co.uk

I have a bad case of the flyaways. It's like my baby hairs along my hair line just won't grow up. Updos have become a no-go, because I hate the after-effects of firm hold hairspray and gel. My hair feels and sounds crispy when I try to loosen it. Too sexy. It's like I'm putting my hand into a bag of chips and just crushing it! Lays, specifically.

I was "introduced" to this product by a friend who couldn't help raving about it, because she loved it so much. I was a bit hesitant to buy this product at first, especially since there are so many other hair silicone and oil products on the market at much more affordable prices. I went for a hair consultation, and the stylist used this product after the blowout and I almost didn't recognize myself without flyaways. That, and I clearly applied my blush like I was mad at my face..in the dark. I was so excited, I even tied up my hair into a high pony...after a PROFESSIONAL blowout. It was THAT amazing. Why would you want to tie up your hair after a professional blowout, right?! I have never...before that day.

It's multi-tasking abilities also grabbed my attention. It can be used on damp hair before styling (for shine, as an anti-frizz and as a leave-in conditioner. It's NOT a heat protector) and after styling, to smooth strands and flyways. It can also be used before shampooing as a pre-cleanse. My stylist explained that if you use a lot of styling products, you can apply a pump or 2 of Elixir Ultime through your hair a few minutes before shampooing to loosen product build up, as well as nourish the length thereof. Doubt I'll ever use it that way, as I'm a lazy-hair kinda girl, but it's good to know. It's also very light, doesn't weigh my fine hair down, and it doesn't even leave that horrible oily residue on my hands after I apply it. You can also apply a little everyday if you so wish. I tried this for 3 days, and it didn't make my hair oilier faster than usual. My hair was still okay after 3 days. It looked exactly like my 2-day-old hair. 

You can read more about the application of Kérastase Elixir Ultime here. They even have short videos for every possible way you could use this product.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime contains a complex of four oils (among other things):

• Pracaxi oil for conditioning
• Argan oil for nourishing
• Maize oil for moisturizing and antioxidant properties. Maize oil also has Omega fatty acids which is essential for optimal cell functioning.
• Camellia oil for it's rejuvenating properties, as well as lovely fragrance.

Although this product is all-around wonderful, it's not as effective for flyaways if you're not doing any kind of heat styling, as I later discovered. It definitely makes a difference, don't get me wrong, but if I don't blow-dry or flat-iron my "front hairs" in conjunction with using Elixir Ultime, those little nasties will still be visible, albeit not as bad as if I used nothing. So... Still in search for a great product that I can use on my non-heat-styled hair for flyaways. I want to wash and go, and maybe gooi it in a bun or high pony, without looking like I have horns. It can be that bad, yes.

What products do you rate for flyaways? Preferably, something that won't make my hair feel hard' n'crispy.

Miss B

Beauty Myths: Fact and Fiction

Some really cool beauty myths, facts, fiction and tips on the Clicks website.

http://www.clicks.co.za/NewsAndViews_Detail.aspx?artid=917

Enjoy.

Miss B

Esse Gel Cleanser

Image from organicchoice.co.za

Esse is a certified organic skin care brand, that utilizes Africa's plant diversity.

I used the Esse Gel Cleanser for a week and my skin was glowing after the first use. It is very gentle, doesn't irritate the skin, and has a very refreshing scent. I have a normal/combination skin, but during the the week that I used this cleanser, I was also suffering from a bit of a PMS breakout on my forehead. It usually takes 4-7 days for this to clear, but in this case, it cleared within 2-3 days. I'm giving all the credit to Esse Gel Cleanser as it's the only thing that was different in my routine.

My skin was also a bit dehydrated before I started using the cleanser, so although my skin looked great, it felt slightly "tight" immediately after cleansing. It wasn't extremely uncomfortable, but I could feel it, especially when I smiled, but after toning and moisturizing, everything was fine. This didn't stop me from using the cleanser though, and it didn't worsen the dehydration during that week, but I prefer using cleansing milks&lotions as I haven't come across a gel cleanser that doesn't make my skin feel at least slightly tight after cleansing. Although this specific cleanser is for "all skin types", I wouldn't advise it for dehydrated and/or dry skin types, unless you prefer gel cleansers to creamy ones, of course. What is your problem with cream cleansers?! They do the same thing...they cleanse your skin. FYI.

It's also a great unisex product, so if you're a man or live with one that happens to cleanse (as you/he should) it is great to share and may save on space/costs. Also, men tend to love that fresh, minty scent that doesn't smell like "girl", and they generally prefer gel/foaming cleansers. It also makes for a great body wash, especially if you're prone to breakouts/acne elsewhere on your body.

Esse Gel Cleanser is pH balanced (4.5) and contains Peppermint and Spearmint Oils which aid in improving micro-circulation, as well as Coconut oil which is known for it's antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Miss B

Waxing 101.5: Bikini Waxing Styles

One of my favourite things to do, ever, unless someone didn't know what they wanted, and then made a decision, changed their mind when it was too late, and left my treatment room unhappy. Other than that I feel like I'm contributing to liberation, by waxing pubes. Judge me all you want. I know I am very good at bikini waxing. I've caused no harm to any of my clients, and I made sure that they were comfortable and that I understood their expectations clearly before starting the treatment.

There are many different styles and names for these styles. In South Africa, there are 4 main "terms" you'll find on treatment menus: Bikini, G-String, Brazilian and Hollywood. They may go by other names in smaller salons and other places around the world but I'll explain each one as best I can.

I thought I'd find some pretty cool animated pics, but there weren't many, so I decided to go with "real people" pics instead. Thought I'd be partially scarred from "Google-imaging" but I think I'm okay. Sigh.

The Bikini wax: (aka The American and Bikini Line wax. Yeah, I don't know, I didn't come up with this shiz)
Removal of all pubic hair that is exposed when you're wearing knickers (bikini-cut) or your swimsuit bottoms. Not everyone wears that style of knickers, so...it's removing the hairs on your upper, inner thighs, most commonly ending at the crease where your thighs meet your labia majora/majus, and sometimes a little from the top, too.

wikipedia.org

It's very neat. If you don't want to wax any further, but think your hair's a bit long, you can always trim it. You could also ask your therapist, but then know that you'll most probably have to remove your underwear.

The extended bikini and G-string wax: Basically removing all the hair that is visible while wearing a G-string. This includes the outer parts of the labia majora. G-string wax very often includes the peri-anal area (your perineum), and sometimes the inside of your butt cheeks. This depends on what you want and on your therapist. Some therapists don't do all this unless you ask, and some just don't. Tell them what you want before you get undressed, so that you're both clear and understood. This could also be referred to as a Brazilian, especially if the hair left makes a rectangular shape down your labia majora.

designerpubes.blogspot.com.
This is done so untidily. I'd never let anyone walk out of my treatment room with a wax like that. In all fairness, this may be regrowth, but still, how not-straight is that strip?!

This (pic above) is a form of the Brazilian wax. Aka the French wax, Landing strip, Californian, Mohican or Playboy.

A brazilian wax may vary from the above pic, to the below pic. Again, you need to be specific about what you want.

zh.wikipedia.org

Although the hair on the labia can be left untouched, as in a G-string wax, Brazilian waxes more commonly mean that your labia majora, peri-anal area, as well as your butt gets waxed. So everything gets removed except for a strip on your mons pubis. This strip may vary in width and length depending on your preferences. You may indicate this to your therapist in "finger spaces" if you so wish. If you do not wish to have your ass waxed, let your therapist know, but I doubt you'll pay any less.

The Triangle wax. Aka The Bermuda triangle or Martini glass: Variation on the Brazilian but instead of a straight line, there's a little triangle that ends at/just before the clitoral hood.

Triangle wax. hairremovaltruth.com

The European or Postage stamp Aka Hitler's moustache (I give up): Another variation on the Brazilian, but this time there's just a patch of hair just above the clitoral hood.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Moustache (I wish I was joking)

Another variation on the Brazilian, except the hair is in a horizontal rectangular shape just above the clitoral hood.

The Heart: The main tuft on the mons pubis is shaped like a heart. It may also be dyed pink. I've never had to do this, I've never been asked. Not sure if I'm offended or happy that I didn't have to spend a lot of time shaping someone's pubic hair into the shape of a heart.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Hollywood (AKA The Sphinx or Bare Wax, sometimes called a "Full Brazilian"): All your hair is removed, including your backside, unless you don't want to. Your vaginal area will be naked, and hopefully smooth.

wikipedia

Don't be afraid to discuss this with your therapist. I know many people are more conservative and modest, but if it makes you feel any better, therapists have seen it all. Everything. And not only have they seen it, they've waxed it. I did most of the bikini waxing when I worked at a spa, and some Saturdays it was all I did from 09:00 - 15:00. Your therapist is not really judging your anatomy (mons pubis/vagina). Every one is different, yet all the same. I don't know, it seemed okay to say "out loud".

If you are comfortable removing your underwear, it will be much easier for your therapist, and will go much faster, as there are no obstructions. Your therapist should always cover the area he/she is not working on with a towel, or at least offer you a towel or robe. You need not remove your underwear for a bikini, but it will help for every other style, as it's easier to judge if both sides are even. It is entirely up to you, though.

If you're interested to see other weird and crazy styles, you can check out designerpubes.blogspot.com.

Miss B

Waxing 101.4: Re-growth

waxmehappy.com

The time it takes for the hair to grow back after waxing varies for individuals. Some say it depends on the stage of hair growth that your hair is in when you get waxed. For example, if your hair is in the active growing (Anagen) stage, you'll be hair free through the 2 other stages of hair gowth, Catagen (transitional stage) and Telogen (resting stage), until the cycle is back at Anagen. I don't agree with this.

The Anagen stage involves complete rebuilding of the hair follicle and may take from 3 months to years. The Catagen stage takes place after a period of growth (Anagen stage) where the follicle degenerates while the hair is still rooted in it, because the dermal papilla (nutrient&oxygen/blood supply) withdraws from the hair matrix. The Telogen stage is the resting period, and "old" hairs either lie dormant or are shed by friction.

Each follicle (about 5 million on the human body) goes through this cycle of hair growth in it's own time or we'd shed like animals. So when one follicle is in the Anagen stage, the one directly next to it may be in the Telogen stage and so on. That's why within a week after waxing, you may see hairs appearing. It probably wasn't long enough for the wax to get hold of it the previous week. It is also possible that the hair was broken off during waxing, but if this is the case, there'll be more than a few random ones, it would be an entire area. When a hair is broken off, the tip will be harder and more blunt than a re-grown hair. The re-growth will be tapered and somewhat "softer". Please note that, if you've shaved before deciding to start waxing, the re-growth after your first (and perhaps second) waxing session may be hard, and feel/like you've shaved it, and may grow back within or after a week. Your body is not used to waxing, and it acts defensively. Your hair is there for a reason (mainly pheromones, but also protection), and when it is removed, your body tries to "repair" the "damage". When your body senses that hair has been removed, it activates the growth cells, and your hair reverts to the Anagen stage, no matter what stage it was in when you had it waxed. So how do you deal with this?

You have to maintain a regular interval between waxing. Or at least try. I've seen great results with an interval of 3-4 weeks. Your hair grows 0,1-0,5 mm per day, and you need about one centimetre of hair above the surface for it be removed efficiently. It is possible to remove shorter hairs with wax, but for best removal, it should be about 5mm-1cm. I know there are some people who are very meticulous about waxing every second week, when there are all of 10 hairs in sight, but if you can help it, give it an extra week. This way, there'll be fewer re-growth hairs a few days after your waxing session. It is also important to follow after-care and home-care advice to get the best out of this hair removal method.

Will your hair get finer? The hair will seem finer and softer, and you'll notice that after a while, the hair grows back in patches. The hair at the back of my legs grows back so much slower than the hair on the front of my legs. It takes about 2-3 weeks for the hairs on my legs to start showing, make that 6 weeks for the hair at the back of my legs. For my first year of regular waxing, I'd wax my legs every week and a half to two weeks, because my hair was long enough to wax. You'll find that the longer you (continue to) wax, the more time you can allow between appointments. Also, with underarm waxes, I've noticed (especially with regular clients) that the hair along the perimeter of the area waxed grows back slower and a lot finer than the hairs at the centre of the same area. So it varies from person to person, and on the area being treated. There are also products available to assist in slowing down and weakening re-growth:

Veet Hair Minimising Body Moisturiser claims to "slow down the appearance of hair re-growth." I've never used this but I've heard from a friend that it's "so awesome" and she could tell the difference in a month. Someone else I asked preferred her regular body lotion. If you have tried this, let me know how it's worked for you. I've seen it at Clicks, PnP and Spar.

sofeminine.co.uk

Depileve's DepilMousse is used to "accelerate the weakening of the hair"

smartbuy.co.za

Depileve's Plant Extract Serum "helps to continue the anti-keratinization process" This is very nice, and is very gentle on the skin, even just immediately after waxing when the skin tends to be more sensitive.

sears.com

Depileve's Intimate Folisan is great if you're prone to ingrown hairs, especially along the bikini line. It contains acetylsalicylic acid and smells like glue. Seriously. It smells horrible, but it works well, especially for little red bumps that often accompany ingrown hairs. Sometimes I  use it on really bad breakouts (on my face) as a spot treatment (screw you PMS), but I wouldn't recommend doing this on very sensitive skin.

salonfirst.com.au

Depileve products should be available at your skincare clinic/salon. If you don't go to a specific one, you could always call and find out if they stock it.


Remember, the better you look after your skin/hair and follow home-care advice, the better the results you can achieve with waxing.

Miss B

Waxing 101.3: Before, During and After

This is all about what you are resposible for pre- and post-waxing. Yes, this is important.  I'll also touch on what can happen during a waxing treatment, and how to deal with it.

Before:

1. Exfoliate in upward, circular motion two days before your waxing appointment. This is a great way to lift the hairs, especially those that lie flat against the skin. This is also great for those hairs that are ingrown just beneath the skin. Often there are hairs that grow parallel to (but underneath) the skin, so you can see the hair, but can't really "feel"/touch it. Exfoliation removes the dead, top layer of skin to expose the underlying in-growns.*

2. If you shower/bath before your waxing appointment, make sure the water is not HOT. You can have a warm shower or bath, but not hot. Also make sure that there'll be 20-30 minutes between your shower/bath and your appointment, so that your body temperature can normalize. Your skin must be at normal temperature when the wax is applied to avoid discomfort, and a negative, possibly severe reaction. Also, don't bother applying body lotion to the area that's going to be waxed. If it's your underarms, skip the roll-on/deodorant/antiperspirant. It's going to be removed anyway.

3. If your appointment is for early morning, or you plan on having a nap before the time, make sure that you allow at least 20 minutes after waking before your appointment. While you're asleep, your body processes continue, and often your skin "puffs up", which is why you need to allow time for it to "settle" back to normal before your treatment, to allow for the best hair removal results, especially regarding the shorter hairs.

4. If you frequent saunas/steam rooms/sunbeds/tan-cans or enjoy soaking up the sun (which I don't encourage) you have to wait about 4 days prior to waxing. I explained this in Waxing 101.1.

5. Self-tan. Waxing could make your self tan look patchy and streaky, so it is best to apply self-tan a couple of days after waxing. I'd advise 3-4 days after, so that you can exfoliate before applying it.

6. Avoid a booze-filled night out the day before your appointment. And avoid the morning coffee while you're at it. Caffeine and alcohol are stimulants and raises the acidity level in your body, making skin more sensitive, and more prone to redness, inflammation and irritation. Alcohol also thins the blood, which is not ideal for clotting, especially in cases of blood spots/ pinprick bleeds. Blood spots or pinprick bleeding is caused by blood rising up the hair follicle when the hair is pulled/removed from the root. The root of the hair is attached to a dermal papilla which supplies the hair with oxygen and nutrients via the blood. So...Have a cup of tea, or water, instead.

7. Take painkillers 30 minutes before your treatment, if you so wish. It is really not necessary, but it could help. You could take medication containing ibuprofen or paracetamol. Please avoid Aspirin/Disprin as they have antiplatelet effects, which could inhibit blood clotting. See point 6. 

8. Don't "ice numb" the area to be waxed, it will make it more painful, by tightening/contracting your pores.

During:

1. Relax. I know for some people it's hard to do, especially during a bikini wax, but it will hurt a lot less if you just get over it..

2. You may have pinprick bleeds, or blood spots. This is normal. It doesn't necessarily indicate bad technique. I've explained why/how this happens above in point 6 under "Before", as well as in Waxing 101.1

3. If you feel any discomfort at all, such as burning and tingling, you need to tell the therapist immediately. IMMEDIATELY. You could be having a reaction that may not be visible yet, or he/she may have burned you accidentally, or pulled/lifted skin. You need to speak up as soon as it happens/you feel it, so that the therapist can take the necessary steps. If something unfortunate has happened, the therapist should advise you on what you can do at home to take care of the problem, or avoid further problems.

4. You may battle with Urticaria (aka Hives). Characterized by red, raised, itchy welts on the skin's surface, often caused by an allergic reaction, but there are non-allergic causes. I'm not sure where I fall under here, but I suffer from this. And although it would probably be best to not wax at all, I hate shaving (a lot!) and I can't afford regular IPL. Yet, anyway. It is FANTASTIC, by the way. So...I'll take it. Mine clears within a day or two (acute case), but it may last longer than 6 weeks if it's chronic. I hope it never escalates to that. There's not much you can do, but take an antihistamine (preferably before waxing), and follow all the after-care/home-care advice.
Here are few pics of my legs after waxing:

This is 5-10 minutes after waxing. You can clearly see that the bumps are raised. Unfortunately you can't see how red it is. Camera-flash and the fact that I took these myself. Sigh.

This is about 45 minutes after waxing, and you can see that it's starting to settle. The bumps are not as raised and pronounced, although still very visible.

About an hour and a half later. Bumps are starting to disappear, even if very slowly and in patches. Sigh

It is not extremely painful, but it tingles, can be itchy, and is very hot to the touch.

After:

1. Do not wear tight-fitted clothing after your wax. This will irritate your skin, especially certain synthetic materials. Wear light/loose clothing, preferably cotton, but any loose clothing will do. This includes underwear when waxing your bikini area. Don't wear your cute, tight, lace panties for 24 hours. Tight underwear should be avoided generally, but since very few of us can resist, it is important to follow point 7 (below), and perhaps sleep commando. Tight underwear also encourages ingrown hairs* by placing pressure (however slight) on the skin prohibiting the hairs from surfacing as they usually would.

2. Do not do heavy/high-impact/cardio exercises 24 hours after waxing. Fun times, right? When you exercise, your circulation is increased, resulting in heat and perspiration. Because your pores will still be dilated/open, your skin will still be sensitive to heat, and could become more sensitivite, and possibly infected.

3. No hot showers and baths for 24 hours after waxing. For the same reasons as point 2. You may have warm showers/baths, but not hot, you can cause extreme discomfort to your skin (and yourself)

4. No swimming. No beach. No pool. Your pores are dilated, both salt and chlorine will irritate your skin. You could break out in defence, and experience tingling and/or burning on the waxed area. Wait about 2 days.

Points 3 and 4 also apply to steam rooms, saunas, jacuzzis, and all other heat/water activities. I know, "Why don't you just lock me up in a cold storage unit?!" Because this will also be uncomfortable and cause irritation to your skin. It is painful to get cold after waxing. Arrector/Erector pili muscles are small muscles attached to the hair follicle, all over your body, and contract when you are cold causing your hairs to stand-up and give you "goosebumps". Whenever I wax my legs, I have to walk around in shorts and skirts for 24-48 hours because my skin is so sensitive, and I can tell you that it f****** hurts when I get cold. And obviously I got cold, because I was probably walking around in the smallest shorts/skirt (if anything) ever, and I often have to go outside at night, to check that my pup empties her bladder before bed. Yeah, boohoo for me, right?!

5. No sun exposure for at least 24 hours. Your skin will be sensitized by waxing, and prone to hyper-pigmentation during this time. Apply a sunscreen, regularly. And by "regularly", I mean EVERY DAY.

6. Also, no heavily scented and coloured body lotions. Fragranced products may irritate your skin. Coloured body lotions may cause temporary discolouration of your skin, depending on your skin and sensitivity. I'd advise Bio Oil, but my skin is especially sensitive after waxing, and even Bio Oil gives me that tingling/burning sensation on my legs. A baby lotion, or aqueous cream should be fine, though. If you've got a soothing lotion or gel with ingredients such as Aloe Vera, it should be perfect. Do a little test patch on the area and wait 20 minutes to make sure you won't react before applying it all over. If you're unsure, it's okay to not apply anything (the therapist should have applied an after wax lotion, anyway), and continue as you normally would the next day. I do it all the time. Update: You can also use an after-sun product, be it a milk, gel or lotion. After-sun products are usually very light in texture and very absorbent. They also contain skin-soothing and -calming ingredients.

7. No exfoliation for 3 days after waxing: may irritate your skin. Exfoliation is very important. You have to exfoliate every 2-3 days after the initial one, 3 days after waxing. *

8. No sexual activity for 24 hours. For reals. I'm not joking. While your pores are dilated (yawn), your skin is prone to irritation by (extreme) temperature changes in/on your body, friction, and bacterial infection. So, no, not even oral sex is okay during this time. Just avoid it.  Unless, of course, you can have sex without your body temperature changing and without friction. And if you can do this, congratulations. *pops champagne*

9. When doing facial waxes, avoid makeup application on the area for at least 24 hours. If you absolutely have to, and there's no other way, apply an antiseptic cream first, and then your makeup.

10. Deodorant and antiperspirant products should be avoided for 12 hours after waxing underarms, to prevent irritation. If you have to use something because you're going out or to an event, etc, use an alcohol free product, with minimal fragrance. I use Nivea Pure (I think) and I have had no negative (or any) reactions. Update: I've also not had any negative reaction from using Dove's Invisible Dry Anti-White Marks roll-on.

11. If you've had a bikini wax and make use of any kind of vaginal sprays/products, avoid it for at least 24 hours to prevent potential irritation. If you're on medical treatment and have to use it daily, best you consult with your medical professional as well as your therapist, and find a suitable solution.


*Ingrown hairs may initially look like a fine rash, or pimples (papule). You may or may not be able to see the hair in the pimple. If the hair is not released, the follicle may become infected and pus-filled.
During waxing, dead, keratinized skin cells are removed from the skin's surface along with the hair. As the hairs are growing back, new skin cells are keratinizing (ongoing process). By the time that the new hairs are ready to appear on the surface, the "new" skin cells are fully keratinized and may cover the follicle opening on the skin's surface. Because re-growth hairs are much finer and softer after waxing, it is not strong enough to push through the keratinized cells that now cover the follicle opening, and the hairs then grow parallel to the the skin's surface, underneath the keratinized cells, or they make a U-turn and grow down towards the root. They may also hit the side wall of the follicle. This is why exfoliation is important between waxing treatments.

I hope this helps you. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to add them in the comments section below.

In waxing 101.4, I'll talk about hair re-growth after waxing, and perhaps go into different styles of bikini waxing. :-)

Miss B

This is a very popular post, please read the post and the comments before you comment asking a question that has already been asked and answered. I'm not always able to

respond immediately, and the info, questions and responses already available could save you some time and waiting. As always, your questions and comments are always welcome.

Waxing 101.2: Types of Wax

pic from sweetmadamblue.wordpress.com

Now that you understand the consultation and contraindications, let's get to the types of wax available.

Strip/cool/cold wax: (all the same thing)
Solid but sticky when cold. Usually comes in tins.
Melting point and working temperature of 43°C. *
It's applied thinly in direction of hair growth (e.g. applied down the leg), and removed, with a strip, against the hair growth. So the strip is removed/"pulled" up the leg.

Strip wax. Image from skin2nvdebi.com

This method is great for areas such as the legs, arms, back, chest (in most cases).
Many therapists prefer to use strip wax on the face, especially for upper lip and eyebrow waxes. I, personally, do not. It is not advisable to reapply strip wax on the same area more than once, and often it is necessary, especially with more stubborn facial hairs. This type of wax is much better for finer/thin hairs. Some therapists are really great with strip wax, no matter what the treatment area is, but I've seen and experienced too many things go wrong with this method. I've had skin burnt and ripped on my eye area (upper eyelids), upper lip, underarms and bikini. YES, bikini! Even legs, but that was at college, so it's kind of forgivable, as that is where most of us made most of our mistakes, I hope!

Hot wax:

Solid when cold.May come in the form of pellets and/or slabs/blocks. Melting point and working temperature is about 68°C *
Requires thick application in opposite direction to hair growth. So it is applied against the hair. So if your hair is growing down, the wax will be applied upwards, against the growth. Smaller patches are advisable.
For those who aren't familiar with hot wax, it looks like smooth cake batter (in prettier colours) and is applied to the treatment area. It is then left for a couple of seconds, to "set" (become firmer/harder, but not rock hard, as then it would crack on removal. This is a sign of heat damaged wax.) and then removed/pulled off. No strips required.

Hot wax when melted. Image from allwomenstalk.com

This is great for underarm, face (eye, upper lip, chin) and bikini. I've had minimal to no problems with this method, especially on the face. My main problem/concern with this method is heat destruction and poor quality wax, which is why you need to go to a professional place. You have every right to ask questions.

Film wax:

Best of both. It has the lowest working temperature* and is applied like strip wax in direction of hair growth, and removed against the hair growth. It has the consistency of hot wax, but is not applied as thickly, and can be removed by either strip, or after it has set, as with hot wax. Can be used on most areas. It's very nice for face and the top part of your bikini area (for those who remove most hair to everything.) It is also great for people with more sensitive skin, especially to heat. Film wax is also not as popular as it should be, so know that not every salon will have/use it.

One of the best waxing brands around. Depileve never disappoints. depileve.com

<Miss B

*Melting and working temperatures may differ from brand to brand. Depileve, for example, have lower working temperatures for their wax products. Their film wax has a working temperature of 39°C.

Waxing 101.1: Consultation & Contraindications

Image from  conflictedfeminist.blogspot.com

Waxing is a popular, convenient, and somewhat economical option for de-fuzzing and many people do it...without knowing much about it.

The first thing that comes to mind for many is pain. One's pain threshold is higher later in the day, so if it's your first time, and you're scared, make your appointment for 3PM or later. You could also take painkillers about an hour before your appointment. You really don't need the prescription medication, unless Myprodol requires a prescription? I don't remember, haven't taken it in YEARS! Panado, Grandpa, Ponstel and Neurofen should be okay. The first time is the worst, I promise. Unless something bad (burns, skin pulling/ripping, bad reaction) happens after that. I've had all of the above, and I don't wish it upon ANYONE.

Making the appointment:

PLEASE go to a qualified professional therapist/salon for this service. Especially if it is your first time. If not, I have no problems with student salons (where health and skin care professionals in-the-making get some experience and mainly "practise" for their exams, etc) but don't expect a five star, perfect waxing session in record time. They're still learning, and need the practise and hours, so they may be a bit slow, and sometimes make mistakes. They need to, that's how/where they learn. Also know that you have the right to ask to see a therapists qualification. If the salon/therapist can't provide it, then you are NOT obligated to make use of the salon's/therapist's services.

If it is not possible to go in before the time for a consultation to discuss the procedure and your concerns, ask for 15 minutes extra when booking your appointment, to do this. In this time, make sure you understand everything BEFORE the treatment starts. If you need the therapist to tell you step by step, for reassurance, ask him/her to do so. It's your right. 

If your salon of choice doesn't require you to fill out a consultation/indemnity form before ANY treatment, walk out immediately. Just go. These forms are highly important and protect you and the salon/spa/therapist. Also, it contains emergency information in case something unforeseen happens., accidents which require medical attention and so on. It also communicates your medical history and contraindications which prohibits you from going through with the treatment. I cannot stress this enough.

Here is an example of a waxing specific client consultation card:

www.itecworld.co.uk

Contraindications explained:

Haemophilia: Blood disorder where one's body can't control blood coagulation and clotting. When waxed, the hair is pulled out from the root. The root is attached to a dermal papilla, which supplies the hair with nourishment and oxygen via the blood. That's why some people get "blood spots" after waxing, as the blood is "rising up" the follicle when the hair is yanked from it. People with haemophilia may not stop bleeding (in this case) without medical help. Also, haemophiliacs tend to bruise very easily. Waxing is not ideal. Medical consent needed.

Medical Oedema: excessive accumulation of fluid in cells/tissues/cavities. This is usually caused by an underlying issue. Strictly medical. Waxing may cause discomfort, and/or exacerbate the condition. Medical consent needed. Also applies to general swelling and undiagnosed lumps and bumps.

Osteoporosis: Also medical. Bones are porous, brittle and fragile. This affects all structures above it. Pressure is often applied in waxing as "support" when removing the wax, also afterwards to soothe the skin. This may cause discomfort. Medical consent is essential.

Recent operations and/or scar tissue: Clients should wait at least 6 months before a treatment on the area (2 years for major operations). Waxing could interfere with the natural healing process, be very uncomfortable and painful.  Also applies to fractures, sprains, broken bones. Medical consent needed, especially since healing process times may differ from person to person, and you may need longer than 6 months.

Diabetes: Diabetics often have defective circulation, so their healing process is slower than the average person, and their blood sugar levels need to be monitored. Also, nerves that sense temperature, pressure and pain on the skin become damaged, so diabetics are less able to let the therapist know when the wax is too hot, or when too much pressure is being applied. This can result in burns and bruises, and general discomfort later on.  Medical consent required.

Loss of sensation: Client would not be able to detect heat/cold or pain from treatment.  Applies to diabetes, too. Medical consent is needed.

Severe varicose veins: Client often experiences tenderness and general discomfort. Waxing would exacerbate this. Also, in many severe cases, the vein being so close to the surface could rupture and cause internal bleeding. Must have medical consent.

Fever (all types): is usually symptomatic of an underlying issue/something else going on in your body. Seek medical attention. You may only wax once your fever has broken, and the cause of it was not serious/another contraindication.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS: CONTAGIOUS! Includes:

Impetigo: reddening of skin, but soon become pus-filled blisters. Highly contagious, waxing would cause cross infection.  Avoid waxing until treated by medical professional.

Stye: inflammation of eyelid, often-upper lid. It is an infection of the sebaceous gland of the eyelid. Scratching or rubbing infected area could cause infection to spread. Avoid waxing until treated and healed.

Boil/Furuncles: Infection of a hair follicle caused by staphylococci bacteria. Acute inflammation with pus formation.  Cross infection risk. 

VIRAL INFECTIONS

Herpes Simplex (Cold sore): Highly contagious. Cross infection risk. A temporary infection. Avoid waxing in this area. So no upper lip waxes.

Conjunctivitis: inflammation of the conjunctiva of the eye. Itchy and sore. Highly contagious. Cross infection risk.

Warts: Firm lesion with a rough horny surface. Medical consent required if open and weeping. Cross infection risk. If closed and not weeping, immediate areas should be avoided. Can be covered with vaseline, and waxed around

Shingles: painful inflammation of nerve ganglia. Caused by the chicken pox virus. Often causes a skin eruption of erythema, vesicles and papules. Therefore, there is a risk of cross-infection and may leave scar tissue. 

FUNGAL INFECTIONS:

Ringworm: Cross infection.  

Scabies: Caused by infestation with the parasitic “Itch mite”. Highly contagious.

Lice: Infestation of the hair and clothes. Contagious as they can easily be spread by close contact. Lice causes an intense irritation and one may have possible scratch marks and rash, sensitizing the skin, making it a contraindication to waxing. Medical consent is required due to possibility of cross infection and contamination.

Bruising, cuts and abrasions: A temporary disorder. It could be painful for the client and disrupt natural healing process. If open/fresh/weeping, it would be a risk for cross-infection as well as skin damage, because skin could be pulled/torn further.  Depending on severity, cuts and abrasions could be covered with vaseline and worked around.

Allergies to ingredients: If you have known allergies to the ingredients in a specific brand/variant of wax, let your salon/therapist know before-hand, and ask if there are any alternative products available. If not, avoid waxing for the time being, or until you find a product you don't have a negative reaction to. Sensitive and reactive skins should also be a aware of this. Medical consent may be required. Test patch is necessary.

Recent haemorrhage: Waxing would stimulate the skin and could cause more problems. Medical consent required

SKIN DISORDERS:

Psoriasis: Autoimmune disease where the skin cells are mistaken for pathogens, or are seen as such. Skin is thick, red and  flaky,  covered in silvery scales. It can become infected, therefore, if it is open or weeping - no treatment can be carried out as there is a risk of cross infection. It may be a temporary condition.

Eczema (Atopic dermatitis): It is a chronic disorder and varies greatly from one person to another. Certain products may irritate condition. Scaly, itchy rashes are most common. Avoid waxing if open and weeping and/or infected as it could cause cross infection, although this condition is not contagious. Medical consent required, to be safe.

Raised and hairy moles: Only a contraindication if inflamed, swollen, weeping  or open as cross infection could occur . Medical consent needed. Otherwise it could be covered with petroleum jelly and waxed around.

Medication and Vitamin A treatments: Medical consent is required for treatment of the skin via oral and/or topical medication e.g. Roaccutane for acne treatment, as well as Retin A and Accutane. These treatments may thin and sensitize the skin, and waxing could tear and/or break the skin, causing bleeding and scarring. Even if you are not on a medical vitamin A treatment, but use products containing vitamin A, note it on your client card, and mention this to your therapist. The specific product's name would help, too.

Sunbed, sunburns, sauna, steam treatments and/or heat rash: Not specifically a contraindication to the treatment, but it is advisable that you wait at least 48 hours after heat treatments such as sauna/steam room and 4 days after a sunbed session or a lot of sun exposure, as it would be over-stimulation for the skin, and could sensitize the skin. As for sunburn and heat rash, waxing can only be performed on the affected areas once the skin has healed or condition has subsided, as it can be very painful, and can do more harm than good, for example, skin could be pulled/lifted.

Self tan: Self-tan contains dihydroxyacetone (DHA) which reacts with keratin in the skin and "stains" the skin. Waxing can cause self-tan to look patchy and streaky as it often removes the top (dead) layer of skin cells.

Fragile, crepey skin: Can be done with the right amount of support, but not advisable, as skin may tear easily.

Menstruation: Not a contraindication as such, but a woman’s pain threshold is at its lowest immediately before and during her period. Also, the hormones which stimulate hair regrowth are most active during this period.  It is up to the individual at this time. Bikini waxes are strictly prohibited during menstrual period due to hygiene reasons.

I didn't cover all the contraindications as some of them are self-explanatory, but you're welcome to ask me if you're unsure of anything.

Miss B

Skin Care Glossary

Not sure what all that jargon is about under the ingredients label at the back of your (cosmetic) product packaging?

Find out here.

Thank you, Allure.com.

Miss B

Before You Buy That Product...

With so many skin care brands available, it can be slightly overwhelming trying to find THE ONE just for you. Not everyone is going to lose their minds with excitement at the thought of getting great products. But I do! I went through almost every product available at Clicks (I'm convinced) in the space of 2 years, and I was disappointed over and over and over and over again. But I'm older and wiser now. Even if only slightly. Hmmm.

I would recommend professional skin care products that one can only purchase from trained professionals at salons, spas, etc over something you can just get at PnP or Clicks, that you think is what you need. Not only because I am a skin care therapist, but also because before I was a trained professional, I was lost and desperate for clear, healthy skin. I suffered from acne. And couldn't afford to go to a dermatologist and buy high-end cosmeceuticals or whatever. Yes, I called it whatever...back then...when I was inexperienced. Problem is, there's no-one at your local Clicks, PnP, etc to analyse your skin and guide you from there. You know you have oily skin, so why wouldn't Product X (available at your local PnP), which is for oily skin types, work for you? Because Product X, perhaps, did not take into consideration your skin condition. You could have oily but dehydrated skin, or oily but sensitive skin. What then? What if Product X manufacturers did not take that into consideration? Use it anyway and hope for the best? Hope that it doesn't worsen your dehydration or sensitivity? Waste of time and money. Having said that, I also understand that not everyone can afford most professional products. Note that not all are as expensive as you may assume. Either way, you HAVE TO know what you're getting into. More importantly, KNOW your skin and know what you want for your skin. A skincare consultant or therapist can help with this.

If you're lucky enough to go for regular facials, click here for advice about taking advantage and making the best of your facial before you purchase products.

For everyone else, that may not be so lucky... I feel your pain.


Many salons/spas offer free skin analyses and/or consultation, so enquire at one. You've got nothing to lose. An independent consultant, however, may charge a fee...but there'll be less (if any) pressure to book a facial and/or buy products from him/her, as he/she may not offer physical treatments and retail products.

Once your skin analysis is complete, you should know your skin type, skin condition and what your skin needs, at least.

He/She will then (most probably) recommend an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He/She should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. If you're still unsure after he/she has explained, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the consultant suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for YOU to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the consultant isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort. Also, may products are very similar, so best to have the RIGHT one.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your consultant know and ask if he/she can recommend something else within your budget. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your consultant know that you already have xyz products (that may have done nothing for you) and ask if you're using them correctly. If possible, take your current products along to your consultation. That way, the consultant can see what you've got and should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime or correct it. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, but they may be in conflict with each other and therefore, you're not getting (good) results. Remember sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT! It should always be included. Yes, YOU HAVE TO!

You should (at least) know this before you purchase:

1. Why THAT product (or those products).
2. When to use the product
3. How often to use it e.g. morning and night, weekly, 2x weekly, etc
4. How to use/apply/remove it
5. When it expires, or how to know when it expires. Most packaging should tell you when, after opening, it should be chucked away.

Products "not working"?
Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the consultant and let him/her know. If you've had an obvious reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that the consultant can see the reaction and determine the cause. Take your products with you, so he/she can check it, to make sure it's not expired, and that it doesn't look/smell funny. If the problem is with the actual product you have, return it to the place of purchase. They should replace your products or refund you.

The consultant should be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin. You may have to get additional, milder,  products to help with this. Damage control.

If your product is not the cause and the consultant is not sure, and had never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist.

If the consultant was unable to solve the problem, and hasn't followed up within a week since you informed him/her about your reaction, find a new one. Email me. Good consultants will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your consultant as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction.

Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B

Facial anytime soon?

Picture: www.lemigroup.com

If you're fortunate enough to be able to go for regular facials, or even if you receive a gift card for a facial, take advantage of this time to ASK questions about your skin/concerns. Before you book your facial, call the salon/spa, and summarize your concerns and ask what facial treatment the skincare therapist would suggest FOR YOUR particular skincare concerns. Sometimes, the therapist (especially a great one) will need more information and suggest you make the appointment and discuss your concerns in person, when he/she can have a look at your skin, and better understand. Also, know that what you think is a problem may not be, and vice versa. For example, you may think your main problem is fine lines/potential wrinkles/ageing. This could, in fact, be as a result of skin dehydration or dryness, and once you solve the dryness/dehydration, your fine lines may not be as apparent. Very loose example.

Firstly, your therapist should use a new/unused pair of facial sponges on your face. He/She should open it in front of you. If the salon/spa uses gloves, the gloves should be clean and dry. If it's not, it's likely you'll be able to smell that it isn't. I hope this never happens to you. Cringe. Don't be afraid to ask if the implements being used on you are clean. It is your right. I won't go into detail about sequence/method/procedure as each skincare brand have their own (sometimes very unique) way of doing things, which will be different from the next. Every facial, however, should include a skin analysis, after cleansing or exfoliation. It's more likely to be just after cleansing, so that the therapist can choose the right exfoliation method/product for you. Your eyes should be closed or covered and there'll be a bright light above your face. There'll also be a lot of facial touching, poking and pinching. Not nearly as bad as I'm making it sound. :-) During this time, your therapist should also be asking you a lot of questions about your skin: what you currently use, your diet, lifestyle questions, experiences with products, medication (even if you have filled this out on the consultation/indemnity form). It is important to give the therapist as much information as possible. Everything is important. If you're on some form of contraception, tell him/her. Even "small" things like vitamins and supplements. If you know the names/brands of the supplements and other medications, write them down on your consultation card before your treatment. If there isn't an allocated space for it, write it anywhere (even on the back) of the form. Vitamin A, retinoids, AHA  treatments, and/or peels are especially important, along with ANY allergies!

This is an elaborate example of a client card. Every spa/salon should have one. It won't always be this elaborate, but you should still include as much info as possible.

And the consultant/therapist will fill in the following during your skin analysis:

And you're more than welcome to ask her about it, or to explain it to you. Note: Not all spas/salons have the same consultation cards. This is just an example.

Throughout your facial, the therapist should be telling you about what she is putting on your face, and how it'll benefit your skin. If you go for regular facials, or are on a specific treatment plan, it's likely that the therapist may only do this once, as it will be the same the next time. And the next and the next. This doesn't mean you shouldn't ask if you don't remember, or are unsure. If you "just want to relax" and enjoy your facial with minimal talking and questions from your therapist, let him/her know before the treatment starts. So, when he/she takes you to the treatment room, let her know then, or just before he/she starts. Please, understand that sometimes, the therapist NEEDS to ask/tell you important things during the treatment. He/She won't, however, talk during a facial massage. He/She may just check if the pressure is okay, but that's it.

You should speak up, should you experience any of the following at any point:

• Tingling
• Burning
• Itching
• Intense pulling (unless you're having a firming/decreasing treatment. Many clay masks tend to feel like they're "pulling" a little.) Either way, if it's uncomfortable, let the therapist know.
• Too much pressure during massage. (Everyone is different.Some people prefer lighter/harder massage pressure on their decolletage and face.)

If you're claustrophobic, please indicate this at the beginning of the treatment, so that the therapist knows to avoid certain methods and products.

At the end of the treatment (if it wasn't done throughout/during the treatment), the therapist will recommend (retail) products for home use. It will most probably be an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He or she should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. Your therapist should be able to explain EVERYTHING to you. If you're still unsure, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the therapist suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for you to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the therapist isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your therapist know. Some products can be expensive, and there's nothing wrong with not being able to afford/purchase these products. If you're (still) embarrassed that you cannot afford the recommended home care products (or are just not interested), just simply say that you're not interested. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your therapist know that you already have products. If you're still interested in home care, she should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, so ask about a suitable exfoliator, mask and/or sunscreen. Sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT!

Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the salon/spa and let them know. If you've had a reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that they can see the reaction and determine the cause. They should either replace your products, or refund you. They should also be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin, especially if they're not replacing your products with others that may help the situation. If they're not sure, and have never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist. If they were unable to solve the problem, and haven't followed up since you informed them about your reaction, find a new salon/spa, or a new therapist. A good therapist/spa/salon will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your therapist/salon/spa as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction. Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B