Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 20 with Dermaxyl™ Complex

I received this from Beauty Bulletin in July as part of my second Product Review Club and few things could make me happier.

The Superficial

First impression: you need more than a pea-size for your whole face. Or maybe I just have a big face?

Turns out, a pea-sized amount (not mini-Astro-sized) is really ALL you need per application. But DON'T expect state-of-the-art SPF 20 sun-protection from that amount of product. Y'all know I'm the Sunscreen Drill Sergeant (SDS sounds like a disease), so do I really need to complete this sentence differently? Do I? DO I?

I used this every day for just over a week when I first received it, and (most importantly to me) I had no negative reactions. Two months down the line, still no negative reaction. I only whip it out for special occasions, though. Having a "semi-sensitive, reactive skin type" this is always my first concern.

This primer appears translucent and peachy, and I got excited that it may have a brightening effect (however slight), but it applies diaphanously. Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer SPF 20 with Dermaxyl™ Complex is a semi-matte primer. It gives a very "soft" finish and is not mattifying to the point of looking dry, but not "glowy" enough to be considered "radiant". It is hydrating, but if you're specifically looking for hydration, perhaps you should try something else. Since Smashbox have a primer for everything (except your walls), you could try their Photo Finish Hydrating Foundation Primer, or you could address your hydration needs with skin care products.

I've used this on it's own and with makeup; there isn't a noticeable difference in the appearance of my skin (in the mirror) after application, but photos say otherwise - pores and fine lines are vaguely blurred and softened. When applying makeup, I only needed about half the amount of BB cream I usually apply, for more or less the same coverage. My makeup definitely lasted longer with less touch-ups needed. It is gentle and effective around the eye area as well as on lips. I applied this before MAC Brave Red lipstick, with no other lip product, and I got at least an hour extra out of it. I'll admit to eating a bit more carefully, but that's not unusual of me - I do it whenever I wear red lipstick. You know, that all-teeth eating style? Where it looks like you're avoiding touching the fork with any part of your mouth, due to the possibility of electrocution... Because forks are evil. Common knowledge, this.

I'm enjoying this product and have added it to my every day "essentials" makeup bag, where it'll happily stay. I look forward to trying the Smashbox Photo Finish More Than Primer Blemish Control Primer - it contains salicylic acid which is one of my favourite ingredient superstars and extremely beneficial for all skin types. Avoid if you're allergic to aspirin, though.

The Deep

WTF is Dermaxyl™ Complex?

**Dermaxyl™ Complex is an anti-aging complex formulated to repair damage related to skin aging. This makes sense since it's a blend of amino acids which help normalize skin cell function by stimulating cell-communication. It may repair skin damage related to aging by stimulation of collagen and hyaluronic acid production. This will also contribute to the strengthening of the skin's natural barrier function. Clinicare.com says, "Daily use of products formulated with Dermaxyl produce results similar to retinoic acid and retinol, and, very importantly, does so without the irritation these products and alpha hydroxy (fruit/glycolic) acid-based formulations often cause." You can read more about the clinical study results here.

Ingredients (as it appears on packaging):
Cyclopentasiloxane,
Homosalate
Polysilicone- 11
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Tocopherol Acetate
Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Polyglycerol-4 Isostearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
Tribehenin
Ceramide 2
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide**
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Phenyl Trimethicone
Water\Aqua\Eau
Silica
Laureth-12
Hexyl Laurate
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Iron Oxides (CI 77491)

You can also check out my video review for Beauty Bulletin, if you so wish:



Miss B

*prices are correct according to www.redsquare.co.za at the time of publishing

Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel

source

I received this product from Beauty Bulletin about 3 weeks ago and was super excited to be selected as part of the Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel Review Club. First time as a part of a BB Review Club. I've used Clinique skin care products before, and although there are very few that I like (The City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 can stay!), I'd totally spend a little extra on their makeup.

The texture is nice - light and easily absorbed, and the packaging is simple and "clean", but not ideal for preservation of the product. The bottle is a firm/hard plastic and unless you can squeeze some out and close it while holding that squeeze without letting more product out, air will get in, and render the product less effective over time. Common problem, that. 

I'm not sure if I'm more disappointed in this product or myself. When I got the news that I'd be receiving it, I Googled my ass off in search of ingredients. Think page 5 of Google search results...where English seemed scarce. No luck, so I had to wait until I had it in my hands. I was very excited about the inclusion of salicylic acid and a few other beneficial ingredients, but this is overshadowed by the use of alcohol and witch hazel which are known skin irritants. Alcohol makes up most of this product and it is very apparent upon opening the product. My heart sank when I saw that alcohol was the first ingredient. Sigh. But neither that nor the addition of witch hazel stopped me from putting it on my face. And I totally regret it.

These pics are not edited in any way, and I clearly haven't mastered all this selfie bs.

I had a mild breakout with one very noticeable blemish below my nose when I started using this. Although the most noticeable blemish was somewhat diminished the next day, I had more noticeable blemishes than before I started using the Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel, including that little monster on my cheek (top right pic). After using this on my entire face, twice a day, for 2 days with much discomfort, I tried using it as a spot treatment for the next 5 days, with no improvement. Using this product had senstitized my skin and I had to deal with breakouts, redness and flakiness. I stopped using the Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel after 7 days of use, and 5 days after that my skin was almost clear, except for that little bugger (top right on image). The mark is still visible, but I haven't been able to feel it since about 4 days after ceasing to use the Anti-Blemish gel.

Needless to say, I won't be recommending this product. I've had more success with Tea Tree oil. The Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel retails at R230 for 15ml, and R350 for 30ml.*

Ingredients (as it appears on packaging):
Alcohol Denat.
Water\Aqua\Eau

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel)
Salicylic Acid
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Sea Whip Extract
Butylene Glycol
Benzalkonium Chloride

Miss B

*prices are correct according to clinique.co.za at the time of publishing

#BeautyTipTuesday: #DabitDontDragit

source: polished.tv

Taking care of our lips may be one of the simplest things in our beauty routines. Applying lip products is habitual for most of us, whether it's in the form of a balm, stain, tint, lipstick or gloss. And it's so quick and easy to do, that it's seldom inconvenient. I do this as I'm locking the door, while I'm putting on my jacket, or sitting in the car waiting for the gate to open/close. Sometimes, I even apply it as I'm walking into wherever I need to be.

Although applying lip products has become second-nature to most, we're all lip-care sinners. The application of lipstick is so glamourous in ads, movies and music videos. I especially love the lipstick slow-mo. It's so seductive and beautiful. Except the part where SHE'S DOING IT WRONG! Okay, that's a tad dramatic.

#DabitDontDragit

Our lips are delicate and we need a little restraint. We should be patting and dabbing on our lip products, instead of dragging lip products carelessly across our beautiful faces. The stratum corneum that covers the lips is super thin, we have no sebaceous glands to lubricate our lips naturally, and water loss on the lips is a whopping 3-10 times higher than the rest of the body The natural colour of your lips is a result of the underlying blood-vessels, and (again) the super thin skin covering it, allowing the red and pink (and blue, in winter) tones to shine through. I think that's pretty cool, but I digress. We need to treat the lips with the same gentle care as we do our eye areas. You don't need much pressure applying good lip products. By dabbing instead of dragging, there's less "stress" and stretching on the very thin skin covering on your lips, and it's less likely to be chapped as a direct result of your application method. I've done this, it ain't cool. And neither was that lipstick.

YES, you can get the same, intense colour without dragging your lippies. Just keep dabbing, and use a lip brush. I do this with red lipstick. I dab it until it's as intense as I like it, and then I dab my lip brush in the same colour and fill the bits and pieces closest to my lip line. I also define the vermillion border with a lip brush or soft lip pencil and VOILA! Same-same. And obvs you can use your lipgloss applicator in the same way. I love the soft brush of Bourjois's Rose Exclusif Lipgloss and the sponge-tip applicator of Essence's XXXL Nudes lipgloss.

So dab-dab-dab, pat-pat-pat, dab-dab-dab. And dab some more.

#DabitDontDragit

Have you mastered applying lip products without dragging? Any tips and tricks?

Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday Post-wax lotion - Home care

If you're a regular reader, you'll know that I'm crazy in love with waxing. I did the waxing series almost two years ago and have updated it as I've learnt new things via research and experience. They're the most popular posts on my blog (see right). Thanks, pervs.

One thing I battle with is post-wax home care. There's only so much I can advise my clients, and there's always a chance they're not going to follow my advice. They may have a hot shower and use a heavily fragranced body lotion as soon as they get home, because of habit, routine and lack of suitable products.

It's best to use a fragrance-free, colourant-free, irritant-free, alcohol-free, soothing lotion on the waxed area. And it's hard to find such products. Trust me, I sat on the floor in clicks reading labels, in search of the perfect body lotion and best sunscreen. I nearly laid down in the middle of the parking lot afterwards, it was so depressing to leave with nothing. An after-wax lotion was also one of the last things I decided on, when starting The Wax Room. I focus on skin care when waxing, and it was hard to find a fragrance-free, alcohol-free post-wax lotion. I don't use a pre-wax spray or lotion for this reason: it all contains alcohol. And if no alcohol is present, it contains other skin-irritants like witch hazel, and then says it's "ultra-calming." *bangs head on keyboard* 

You could buy post-wax lotion. Some suppliers are open to the public (very few), but you could simply ask your therapist about options, or ask her to order the one s/he uses on you, if you've never had a negative reaction to it. You could also use an after-sun product. Whether it be a lotion, milk or gel, it's probably better than that perfumed body lotion you have. You know, the one that came in a set with your fragrance. The MATCHING one. Do people still do this kind of layering of perfume? Seriously, I'm curious. Many after-sun's are great in that they have a light texture and are packed with soothing and moisturizing ingredients.  Avoid any after-sun products that are heavily fragranced, though. My favourite anti-irritant, soothing ingredients are aloe vera, allantoin and chamomile. Many health, natural and/or homeopathic stores have aloe vera gel and chamomile creams that could be perfect. Again, be mindful of the ingredients and fragrance components. All fragrance is bad for skin. Even natural fragrance.

What products do you use after waxing? Have you ever been advised to use something specific?


  Miss B

Dark Circles: Think about it...

"Hundreds of eye creams are being sold, all making claims they get rid of dark circles among other problems around the eye area, and yet we have never received feedback from anyone saying their dark circles went away from the products they were using. Even the cosmetics companies don’t believe their own claims about the eye creams they sell or they wouldn’t launch new ones year after year after year. If the last ones worked as claimed, what are the new ones for?" - Paula Begoun. 

Makes sense, right?

Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Eye Makeup

Do your eye makeup first.

Yeah, son, I don't waste time.

Prime your face, and then concentrate on your eye makeup only. Apply foundation and concealer to your eye area, and then continue as you would with your eyeshadow, liner, mascara and/or whatever other eye makeup products you use. 

When you do your eye makeup first, it's easier to clean up any fallen shadow, smudged lines and mistakes you've made. Er, mistake you've made with makeup, obvs. Sure, you could pat powder under your eyes, but I find that often the powder sticks and I end up with more powder than I wanted. I don't wear powder under my eyes, usually, so even a little is too much for me. I'm still on a mission to find the perfect powder that doesn't crease and cake and make my skin look drier and more tired than it is. Urgh. 

When I apply mascara to the lower lashes, especially when I'm in a rush, I often touch the skin beneath the lashes. If I had patted some powder onto that area, after foundation and concealer to the entire face, I'd most likely smudge the mascara when dusting the excess powder away. If this happens before I apply foundation and concealer to the rest of my face, it's much simpler to just swoop in with my foundation brush. The same applies if you're using eyeshadow to line the lower lids. You may have applied more to one eye than the other and when it looks uneven, it's harder to correct once all your other makeup is applied. You'll have to go in with your foundation, and then it may not match the rest of the already-concealed and set area, and then you'll have to re-do that. 

Another reason I find this method great is that I spend the most time on my eyes, and I need a steady hand and lots of light. Once that's done, and I've run out of time, I can do everything else in the car. You don't need a super steady hand or perfect precision to spread/blend/apply foundation, powder, bronzer, blush and even highligher. Even if you don't have time for all that, your eyes will be perfect and all you'll need is some lip colour, if that. 

Eyes on the prize.

Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Nose Peeling - Prevent and Heal

I suffer from hay fever, sinusitis, a handful of other allergies and I currently have a cold. Sniff. On a great day, I don't touch my nose at all except when I'm doing my usual beauty routine. On a bad day, I go through and entire box of tissues and/or a toilet roll and my *sneeze* sentences *sneeze* go something *sneeze* like *sneeze* this.*sneeze* *tears* Damn, I knew I shouldn't have thrown away all those rolled up tissues before I took a picture for you guys. If I put it all into a pillow case, I'm sure my Cocker Spaniel would have a comfortable pillow-bed.

This fading cold doesn't help much. Because of all the nose-blowing and nose-rubbing, my skin goes through a lot of friction and irritation. And boy does she express herself and let me have it. The skin around my nose dries out and peels, I breakout in the perioral area, my lips become dry and sometimes, my skin even starts flaking from my nose to my chin. This makes any skin care product application uncomfortable and makeup can emphasize all that is wrong, and sometimes burns.

There is a simple solution, really: Apply a layer of balmy moisturizer onto the skin around your nose BEFORE blowing it. This way, there's a layer between the tissue/toilet paper and your skin, and there's less friction and direct irritation and rubbing of your skin. You can use any petroleum jelly-based product, or a rich, emollient cream. Here's the deal, though, it can't contain alcohol and/or fragrance. These are two known skin irritants (and we should cut it out of our routines, completely, in my opinion). It doesn't matter how little of it there is in the product. Your skin's already going through a lot, why put it under additional stress and prolong the healing process, especially if the skin's already dry and peeling?

I use (and LOVE):
1) Eucerin's Aquaphor Soothing Skin Balm

source: longevitylive.com

It smells like nothing, and feels pretty much like petroleum-jelly. It enhances your skin's natural healing process and forms a protective barrier. It contains 41% petrolatum (active ingredient), mineral oil, panthenol, glycerin and a few other ingredients. Nothing "special", right? Back to basics, yo. I bought this specifically for my nose, but now use it on my lips, cuticles, hands and feet. And have gladly shared it with The Man, for his feet. I remember to use this before blowing most of the time, but when I forget and my skin's already peeling, I apply it to the dry skin anyway, and I've seen a great improvement in the healing time and appearance of my skin. It also makes a big difference when applied to peeling skin before makeup application, but remember to rub it (or press it) in gently before makeup application.

2) Balm Balm Face Balm, fragrance-free

source: balmbalm.com Currently available on rubybox for R149,95*

Balm Balm's Fragrance-free Face Balm contains shea butter, sunflower oil, beeswax, calendula oil and jojoba oil. It's super moisturizing. I only use this when my nose is blocked and I can't smell a thing. I don't know what it is, but I really battle with the smell. It reminds me of the smell of old, used oil that my grandmother used to pour into a bottle from the pot because she didn't want to throw it down the kitchen sink drain. I just can't deal. I feel like I'm Jim Carrey in Liar Liar doing "The Claw" on myself when I apply this when my nose is not blocked. Other than that, it's good, and a great option for those who don't like that "vaseline" texture. Although this is a balm, it melts onto your skin, and feels pretty much like an oil-based serum. This kind of texture is better for pre-makeup-application use once the skin is already peeling. It melts onto the skin and "glues" down the dry flaky bits so it looks like nothing was ever wrong. Remember to conceal the redness, though. And like Eucerin's Aquaphor, this balm can be used a multitude of ways. I actually prefer this one for my cuticles.

You could also use petroleum jelly if you want. PLEASE DO NOT USE Vicks VapoRub, or any other other menthol-y products (incl. Zambuk and Cuticura). It will burn, and all that camphor, menthol and eucalyptus is not great for your skin: known skin irritants. Camphor can cause dermatitis with long-term use. All these irritants are counter-irritants, producing one kind of inflammation to replace another and impairs your skin's healing response, which is what you want at it's best when your skin's peeling, or recovering from any other injury. Remember that just because you're not feeling or seeing the irritation, doesn't mean it isn't happening and damaging your skin over time. By all means, get some eucalyptus/peppermint oil and use it for aromatherapy purposes and to help clear a stuffy nose, just don't apply it directly to the skin.

What do you use when the skin around your nose is peeling and sensitive?

Miss B
*At the time of publishing

#BeautyTipTuesday: Sunscreen

If you don't know by now, I am in love with sunscreen. Not like that, eeuw! I am a sunscreen enthusiast. And proudly so.

I am all for sun protection, and I honestly don't understand why more people aren't. Well, I have an idea: laziness. So you have enough time to make a cup of coffee in the morning and put on your makeup, maybe do your hair, but you can't spare 5 minutes (even less) to add sunscreen into your daily routine? I mean DAILY, not just Monday to Friday. I've made a few last minute decisions to leave the house and even then, I'd rather protect myself from harmful UV radiation than apply makeup. And no, makeup with SPF is not enough. I apply sunscreen every day, at least to exposed skin, but mostly I apply it to my entire body. Including hands and feet. And ears. And many of my hair products have UV filters in them, too. 

A few clients have "confessed" that they go to the store with the intention to buy sunscreen, but once they arrive, they get overwhelmed with all the options, promises, SPF numbers and price options. It is totally understandable, the same thing happened to me the other day. My sunscreen is currently less than half (freak out sesh. Kidding.) and I went in with a list of sunscreen ingredients to look for, and then realized that every single sunscreen available at the Clicks closest to where I stay either had alcohol and/or fragrance in it. Some of which had it in the top 5 ingredients. No, thanks. Pass. It's frustrating, as alcohol and fragrance (even "natural" fragrance) are known to be irritating to the skin. And there's no way your skin can function at it's best when it's irritated. I'm still searching, though, and I'll be happy to share if I find one that's got all the good stuff with none, or much less, of the bad stuff. :-)

In the meantime, here's a list of sunscreen ingredients to take note of, and refer to, when next you go shopping:

• titanium dioxide
• zinc oxide
• butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane a.k.a avobenzone and Parsol 1789
• Mexoryl SX a.k.a ecamsule. Technical name: terephthalylidine dicamphor sulfonic acid. Great facial nerve exercise.
• Tinosorb

These ingredients should be listed as "active ingredients". Not many products in SA list the active ingredients separately from the rest, so it would be good if one of the above is listed in the first few ingredients. It would also be SUPER if you could find a formulation that is alcohol- and fragrance-free (and if you do, please share in the comments below). Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and other fatty alcohols are not bad for your skin: they are emollient and can benefit dry skin. If fragrance (may also be listed as "parfum" or "pthalates")  is listed in the last three ingredients, I wouldn't worry too much, if the rest of the formulation is great and the active sunscreen ingredients are present.

Waste no more time procrastinating this protective measure, y'all. It's one of the simplest things you can do to protect yourself from the sun's damaging UV rays. 

And don't skimp on the sunscreen. Seriously. Pretend it's your favourite drink and you just want it all over you. Wow, that's not a great example. You get the picture. 

Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Oops, I squeezed out too much product...

...brought to you on a Wednesday because my laptop loves me sooooo much.

Sometimes we're in a hurry, and you know how it goes: you get toothpaste on your cleavage and in your hair, you wash your hands and end up with water splashed on your clothes in your pelvic area, you put foundation in your hair and your hair serum on your face, you squeeze out waaayyyy more product than you need. Of course, you don't have to be in a rush for these things to happen, as I have proven to myself almost daily.

My hands are sometimes stronger than I realize and I end up squeezing/pumping out too much product and then I swear at myself and let out a few heavy sighs. Even my dogs have picked up on this, and they do it before I even get the chance. Kids. Smh. Well, since you can't put it back as that will compromise the hygiene of the product, as well as increase and promote oxidation, we have to find ways of using it, right? It doesn't have to be the end of your product-economy-world. Here's what you can do with "extras":

1. Cleanser: If it's good enough for your face, it's good enough for the rest of your body.

2. Eye product: Apply the excess to any potential perioral lines (around your lips) and nasolabial folds (from the "outside" of your nostrils to the outer corner of your lips). You can also apply it to your cuticles, especially if you're using a richer, creamier eye product.

3. Moisturizer: Your facial care routine should extend to your neck and decollete, but if you don't already do that, any extra moisturizer should definitely go there. And if you still have left, your boobs and shoulders can get some lovin', too. In that order. Or not.

4. Sunscreen: No such thing. Put it everywhere. More! A little more than that. EVERYWHERE!

5. Hand cream: Elbows, knees, feet. It hardly ever happens, but when I squeeze out too much hand cream, my elbows do a happy dance. And can your heels ever get enough cream? C'mooon.


What do you do when you squeeze out too much product? Have any other tips and tricks?


Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Skip the Steam

image source: cygstarz.hubpages.com

Along with many others, I thought steaming was great for skin. Turns out, not so much.

The reasons I studied about why steaming was good for skin made a lot of sense to me at the time: softens surface debri making it easier to remove, opens pores for better product penetration, prepares the skin for the next step of a facial routine and is essential for products that are activated by heat and moisture. Sigh. Firstly, pores aren't doors: you can't open and close them as you wish with hot or cold water. Secondly, a good water-soluble cleanser can remove surface debri just fine. Product penetration is another post all on it's own. The only products that are activated by heat and/or moisture, that I can think of right now anyway, are some enzyme exfoliants and perhaps a mask. And I can think of less harsh ways to get both heat and moisture. Wet fingertips, anyone?

Steam is irritating to the skin, and can cause or worsen redness and result in inflammation. The heat can cause major discomfort, not to mention burns if used incorrectly. It can also cause broken capillaries that will appear similar to Telangiectasia (dilated blood vessels close to the surface of the skin).

Telangiectasia. Image source: doctorv.ca

 I've never seen telangiectasia this pronounced (or on the top of the nose area) on a client. It's more commonly found at the sides of the nose: supra alar crease, nostril and alarfacial groove. Image source: doctorv.ca

Steam CAN'T add moisture to your skin. You can't add moisture to your skin by soaking it in water. This breaks down the intercellular matrix which keeps skin cells bonded and functioning, creating a natural barrier. And we know that barrier function is one of the most important functions of the skin as it provides protection against moisture loss, bacteria/microbial invasion, irritation, inflammation and discomfort (among others), while supporting healing due to injury. The skin is such a wonderful organ. Steaming your face disturbs the intercellular matrix, which may result in dry skin because there is no longer protection against moisture loss.

Next time you go for a facial, give the steam a skip and ask the therapist why she uses it (out of curiosity). Yes, steam has been shown to be relaxing, but are you going for a facial for the sole purpose of relaxing? Heard of massage?

Remember: steam doesn't penetrate and cleanse your pores, and it defs doesn't add moisture.

Miss B

P.s. You know how after steaming, your face is wet? Your skin was obvs crying. Because steam is a meanie.



.

#BeautyTipTuesday: Makeup Removal

I have to apologize about Beauty Tip Tuesday being on Wednesday. Whatthefructose. I had never scheduled a post before, and I scheduled this one and then....nothing. Urgh. Whaddupwiddat.

Today's (Yesterday's) Beauty Tip is about makeup removal.

A good, water-soluble cleanser should remove basic makeup, so why not try cleansing your face first, and if you need to, use a makeup remover on cotton pads afterwards. Obviously, if you wear lots of makeup, and waterproof products at that, you'll need a little help from a fragrance- and colourant-free makeup remover.

I haven't used makeup remover in a long time. I usually just cleanse, and if needs be I do a double cleanse, and then gently "dry" my face with a damp face cloth. I use a white, or very light cloth, for this so that I can see if there are any traces of makeup left, and then make sure it's garwn before slamming into my bed like a dead weight.

Your makeup remover shouldn't have fragrance and colouring agents, as these may likely irritate your skin, and may require additional cleansing to remove. Sounds like too much work for me, y'all. So dampen your face and then gently, but thoroughly, cleanse your skin in quick massage-like movements. Remember to get into that hairline, go right up until your ears, and up your neck (not down your neck, you guys, you work UP your neck). Yes, over your eyes, too. Your cleanser should be gentle enough to use over your eyes. I just heard one of my lecturers tell us "Do you know how many microorganisms live in your brows and lashes?" in my head. Obvs. 

By using your cleanser first (if you even need to use anything after) you minimize that horrible pulling and tugging and dragging motion you do with cotton pads and makeup removal wipes. You need to be far more gentle with your skin, kids. And guess what pulling and dragging and tugging on your skin does? It weakens the elastin fibres, and we know what that means... an increased risk of premature sagging. So be gentle when you cleanse, and be gentle when you remove any remnants of makeup with cotton pads and/or wipes. Don't use your strong hand for this one. ;-)


Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Nail care

Helloooooooo!

Happy New Year! :-)

I'm so excited about this year. I'm not going to go all "this is my year" on you, don't worry, I'm just super excited. About the new year. Every year. I ate too many Fizzers in the last week. Including today.

"2014 is gonna be my year!!" - people who's year was supposed to be 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010...
— Travon Free (@Travon) January 1, 2014

Haha.

Anyway...

Welcome to Beauty Tip Tuesday, my new feature, where I get to share some more beauty tips. You're welcome to share your beauty issues and struggles via email or leave a comment below, and I'll try my best to give you some simple tips to make life that little bit easier. :-)

Today's tip is about nails. Well, more specifically, fingers.

We all know that removing our nail polish/finish product, especially if you have gel nails or artificial tips that require soaking off in acetone, can leave the skin around our nails (and our fingertips) dry and sensitive. So next time you remove your nail polish, coat your cuticles and the skin around your nail with vaseline, body butter, cuticle oil, olive oil, lip balm, conditioner or my latest household obsession, coconut oil. Sometimes I'm very impatient when it comes to removing nail polish so I just apply one of the aforementioned mediums to both my hands, as I would hand cream. So because your hands/fingers are wonderfully coated, you don't lose as much moisture from your skin and cuticles. Easy, right?

Try it and let me know how it goes.

Miss B

Smashbox Photo Finish Bronzing Foundation Primer

I bought this on Rubybox as a gift to myself. They had a Christmas in July Sale. AAAAAAAHHHHHH.

I've always wanted to try the Smashbox primers as they walk away with most of the beauty awards in their category. I've tried a few of their primers before, in the store, on the back of my hand, just to feel the texture and see the finish. And I could never close the deal because I've justified to myself that hand cream and socks and underwear were more important at the time. As if my face doesn't need underwear, too.

So why now? Because I'm a big girl that doesn't like powder (or even wear proper foundation), so I need a different approach in longer-lasting makeup. According to it's description, it's meant to warm the skin tone, reduce visible pores and fine lines, and even skin tone, making for a smooth application of foundation.

Well, it arrived and I went NUTS! Jumped up and down, did a little booty dance, NUTS!

Until I put it on my face.

Eh. Hmm. Urgh. Meh.

It was like this one time when I was a kid and there were grapes on the table and I was all "YAY! I love grapes" and took a handful, then I bit into one and it was an olive. Or at my matric farewell, when I was so happy there was potato salad and dished a whole BIG spoonful, and saved it for last, and it was a feta salad thing. Who does that?! Seriously.

It has a nice smooth texture and feels velvety. It's also pretty mattifying and has a nice, light scent. I love the black and clear bottle. And that is all that is good for me, friends. Although it comes out a dark, bronze colour, it "melts into" your skin. I wouldn't call this product "bronzing" because it didn't "warm" my skin tone. Also, in case you thought it was luminizing or even slightly shimmery, it isn't. It's very matte. It didn't even appear tinted. I specifically applied it to only half of my face, first, to see the difference. There was no difference. It neither softened fine lines nor reduced the appearance of pores. Nada. If anything, this is a mattifying primer. It feels nothing like any of the Smashbox primers I've tried in the store before.

Have you tried any of the Smashbox primers? Which are your favourites?

Miss B

Rubybox Tools: Foundation Brush

If you didn't know, I really love Rubybox. So, it makes me happy that they have their own brand of beauty products in the form of Rubybox Tools. Tools make me happy. I can hardly imagine what our made up faces would look like without tools. Well, I can, but it's not as pretty as with tools.

Out of the few that I have, we should probably start at the beginning (of our routines) with their Foundation Brush.

It's a flat, medium-sized foundation brush, with tapered bristles that are soft yet firm. Because I'm such a hygiene-enthusiast I clean foundation brushes after every use (unless I'm rushing in which case I do a quick clean on a makeup removing wipe and wash it later), and it's kept it's shape after 6 months of use. I also don't recall seeing one of these bristles on my face or décolleté after makeup application: a problem I've had before with other professional brushes. I've never loved a flat foundation brush as much as I have this one, and I love that it's tapered. I've used flat-edged ones before that don't blend very well. Different strokes for different folks.

In terms of application method, it's great for product economy as you use less product than you would if you just smeared it on your face with your hands. It works well to apply your daily moisturizer if you like all that faffing on your face. The blending ability is good...for most foundation products. I don't necessarily think that the fault is in the brush, but rather with the texture/medium of certain products. I love applying my tinted moisturizer with this brush and it works perfectly for that, but as mentioned in one of my BB Cream reviews, I looked like I was coated with butter, ready to go into the oven, when I used it with that specific product and needed to blend with my fingers afterwards.

This brush is so gentle that although it probably works best in linear strokes, you could use it in circular motions if you so wished without "pulling" on the skin. The size is also perfect to apply product to the eye area. You can apply your foundation or the like under your eye and get right up to the lower lash line and blend it without getting product on your lashes or in your eye. Same goes for the upper lid. I can easily control the brush to get product right up to my eyebrow without letting it touch my brows.

I also use this brush to apply cream blush. Say whaaat?! Yes, that's right. I have really cold hands and this makes it hard to apply cream blush evenly, most of the time. The product doesn't melt into my skin nicely and look very natural when my hands are super cold and it feels like I'm trying to colour in my cheeks with new pastels, all while PULLING my skin. I hate skin pulling so much. Also, the product seems to be "softer" in it's compact than on my icy fingers. And when I don't have all the time in the world and sometimes have to apply my makeup in the car after touching the keys to unlock the front door, the security gate, then lock the front door and security gate, open the front gate that needs some extra loving via a push, close the front gate that now needs to be pulled, open the car door, close the car door and then put on my seatbelt...my hands are no longer hygienic and sanitary enough for me to be touching my face. So why not use a brush instead? Saves me a whole lot of potential problems and anxiety. I have a reactive skin, okay, stop judging. I do NOT have OCD. And the results are great.

If you've been thinking of getting a foundation brush but haven't yet decided on one, this one is definitely worth a try. Plus, that matt black handle looks so smart and classy.

Rubybox Tools Foundation Brush retails at R149.95 at rubybox.co.za.


Rubybox is currently running a competition, in search of a brand ambassador, called RubyRoyal. I've entered and would appreciate your vote. Go team! *shakes pom poms*

To hit me up with votes click http://bit.ly/10Qdu4S and "vote" if you're on a PC or Laptop. Unfortunately, that link doesn't work from mobile devices. I have no idea why, I'm technically tehnologically challenged. If you're on a mobile device click HERE, then "View entries" and click on my video "Elana, Cape Town" and vote. All your support would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. :-)


Miss B

Garnier Miracle Skin Perfector BB Cream

amazon.co.uk

I tried this for the first time last year, but couldn't judge it fairly as there were many variables at the time. I've revisited it, and am kind of impressed.

I'm not Garnier's biggest fan, generally, as I've had a bad experience or two using their skin care range(s), so I was a bit hesitant, but it was one of the first BB creams available in SA, and cost-effective (about R89) at that, so my curiosity got the better of me.

It's a 5-in-one and is meant to even tone, hydrate, smooth fine lines, blur imperfections and provide an SPF of 15. I used the "medium" shade, and although it looked a bit muddy (with hints of pink) on me at first, it blended really well. Depending on your skin type, you can use this on clean skin sans a moisturizer. It makes for really smooth application with your fingertips as you would apply your moisturizer. If you have normal/combination skin, you probably won't need to moisturize at all, just apply your eye product if you use one, and then Garnier's Miracle Skin Perfector BB. I can't really advise application methods for drier skins, as I find this BB quite oily for myself, and won't be able to tell if it's enough for you, or if you need added moisture. After about 2 hours, I'm whipping out the blotting sheets, and I always need more than one. Bear in mind that I don't use powder.

It provides a light coverage, with a radiant finish. My skin looks dewy after I apply it. This doesn't settle, and become matte. In fact, as I mentioned above, it becomes quite shiny and oily looking. Not just on the "oily T-zone" but everywhere. I actually look super gross after about 2 hours. Like, seborrheic. Or like I just cracked open an oil capsule and lightly brushed it on my face, with a basting brush. I tried using powder once with this BB cream and it certainly does make a difference, but not for long. I needed to use blotting sheets anyway, just not as soon as without the powder. 

I probably won't use this all over my face as a BB cream again, but I have to note that while using this, my skin did improve. Yes, the condition of my skin became better: clearer and more even. I don't have uneven skin tone, as such, but the difference was noticeable. Also, I "breakout" regularly (thanks, PMS) which doesn't always look bad, sometimes it's not at all noticeable. It is, however, a nice test for me with regards to products.  I like to try it out during that time so that I can observe how my skin reacts. Because of the light coverage, it doesn't cover spots really well. Not on it's own anyway, but it makes for a nice primer/spot-treatment under foundation.

For me, the best way to use this, is as a highlighter. I've tried it both under my foundation and over, and it works, both ways. It's got some concentrated mineral pigments which makes for a very nice glow that doesn't make you look like a disco ball. More like a Chrismas ball/bauble. You know, a little more subtle. I apply it to my cheekbones and brow bones, and on really lazy days, I use it over the entire eye lid with a coat of mascara. If you use a matte or mattifying foundation and have those days where you want t little more radiance without the effort of bronzing powders, highlighters and and and,  I think it would work really well if you add a tiny little blob of this to your foundation.

When I bought it, there weren't testers available, but I've noticed that there are now. So make sure to test it ON YOUR FACE before buying it, to make sure you get the right shade, unless you're getting it for highlighting/priming purposes.

Miss B

Bobbi Brown BB Cream SPF 35

everythingbobbi.com

I'm still on a mission to find the perfect BB Cream for myself. I've never really owned (a full coverage) foundation. The first and last time I had foundation on my face was for my matric dance when I had my makeup done. I don't like it. Or I don't like the idea of the "masking" effect, rather. Yes, I know we've come a long way and there are super stuff on the market that "melts" into your face and becomes a "second skin". Maybe I'm just hesitant because I have a post-acne reactive skin. Either way, I prefer tinted moisturizers, and now BB creams. Plus, I'm a sucker for multi-purpose products.

Bobbi Brown BB Cream SPF 35 is said to cover imperfections and, therefore, even skin tone; moisturize and control oil; brighten skin instantly and over time; help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and help protect against UVA/UVB radiation.

I haven't worn this on it's own (without sunscreen underneath) during the day so I can't really comment on the protection element, but it definitely provides some cover, moisturizes and brightens. I'm not entirely convinced on the oil control factor, as my forehead can get oily over time, and I've noticed this while wearing this BB cream. However, I don't think it's anything a little powder can't fix, and I'm hardly ever without blotting sheets. I'm not big on powder.

It comes in 5 shades: Extra Light, Light, Fair, Medium, and Medium to Dark. At first glance, I assumed I'd be the Fair, but after testing it (and the Medium) on my skin, with much appreciated help from one of the assistants at Bobbi Brown, I'm the "Medium to Dark" shade. There wasn't anything darker, but it works for me.

I swatched it next to a little blemish, see?

Made sure I spread it over the blemish.

Completely blended. A bit pink on my hand, I know. But, blemish covered.

It has a light-to-medium texture, with no obvious scent, and would probably be best applied with warm fingers. I often use a foundation brush to apply this, but I find I look a bit like a pastry that has just been brushed with melted butter or egg yolk: a bit wet and slightly yellow. So, I always end up using my fingers to blend it into my hairline and all along the "perimeter" of my face, right down to my jawline. I also do this above my brows and on the sides of my nose. It just looks better once I've gone over it gently with my fingers and once I do it, it really looks like it just "melts" into my skin.

On first application, before blending completely, it looks like it has yellow undertones (hence the butter/egg yolk brushing), which is great, because I have yellow undertones, so matchy-matchy, right?. But on my hand it looks pinkish. The pink is not obvious on my face, though, and I suppose it contributes to brightening up my face. Also, the yellow undertones help cover any under-eye blueness, and some slightly green veins showing through the delicate skin around the eyes. Mine are quite obvious, and I didn't need to use concealer with this Bobbi Brown BB cream. I just dabbed a little more (a second layer, as such) BB cream over the visible veins, and they were gone. Gone gone. Looked completely covered, but still natural, like I never had it to begin with.

It provides a smooth, medium coverage. My face looks matte but not dry, and usually by the time I've applied the rest of my makeup, it looks more natural and glowy, but not shiny. If you want a more matte look, you could apply powder, but as mentioned above, I don't love powder. I know it sets your makeup, etc, but I'm a minimalist, and I don't like looking too matte. I like the radiant, glowy, I-just-moisturized look.

Overall, I like it, and it looks natural on photos, with minimal flashback, despite the high SPF. Unfortunately, I can't use this everyday. I've been using it for almost 4 months and noticed that I start breaking out when I use this on consecutive days for longer than 2-3 days. It may be a little too rich for my combination skin, so I save it for "special occasions." Having said that, I think this would be great for someone with a normal-to-dry skin.

Have you tried this one? How does it work for you? What are your favourite BB Creams?

Miss B

BB Creams

For those who are still in search of great, affordable BB creams, Revlon and Rimmel's versions are now available in SA.

Revlon Photo Ready BB Cream Skin Perfector

Rimmel BB Cream 9-in-1 Skin Perfecting Super Makeup

You can read Leigh's review at Lipgloss Is My Life. Love her!!!

What BB creams do you use and love?

I can't wait for L'oreal and Maybelline's BB Creams to get here.

Miss B

A Tan is a Scar...

A natural/UV-induced tan, that is.

thechive.com

I don't hate the sun, I just encourage safe tanning and more importantly UV-protection. The only safe way to tan is from a bottle or tube. Mostly true. So it grates me a little when I see people posting their tan progression pics as they lay in the sun for hours on the beach or next to the pool. Nice hipbones and knees, though. Thanks for that.

I can't tell you what to do or not to do, but I hope this post will at least explain my angst about natural/UV tanning, and why I go all out to protect myself from the sun's harmful UV radiation, and why you should do the same.

UV rays from the sun can penetrate your skin. Because there a different types, with different wavelengths, they reach different levels of cellular activity. You develop a tan because skin cells signal that they are being/have been hurt. In response to this, more melanin is produced by your melanocytes, in the stratum germinativum* and pushed to the upper layers of the skin, producing a tan. It's like when something goes into your eye, your eyes tear. That is your eye's defence mechanism to protect the structures in/of the eye. The same goes with white blood cells. White blood cell count increases when an infection is present because phagocytes (type of white blood cell) engulf and destroy harmful microorganisms in your body. Therefore, when your white blood cell count is high, doctors know that there is something wrong and an infection is present...something is harming your body.

DNA is part of all the cells in your body. DNA makes up the genes. Because UV rays can penetrate your skin cells, they can affect the cell DNA whose responsibility it is to manage cell function. Therefore, your cell functions are now distorted and damaged, sometimes depleted. As the cells develop, it has to go through a process of cell division. These abnormal cells, now with damaged DNA (which replicates), will be multiplying creating a mutation. This is how skin cancer starts/progresses.

If you think that you barely spend enough time outdoors to experience this kind of damage from the sun, think again. You may be in your car for most of the day. Your car is not immune to UV radiation. Your windows do not filter UV(A) rays, which is why an increased risk in skin cancer has been linked to driving. If you get the slightest tan, from sun exposure no matter how you get it: driving, getting fresh air, walking from your car to the entrance of some place, hanging up the washing, picking herbs from your cute little herb garden, damage has ALREADY been done. A tan is a defence mechanism to try and protect your skin/cells from further damage. Ten minutes of sun on unprotected skin daily is enough for Vitamin D production. And this can be on your hand or foot. No need to go completely unprotected. [She says with trepidation.]

Still not convinced?

Huffington Post 

Meet Bill McElligott, 69, a truck driver in Canada. 28 years of driving on the job has caused this very obvious unilateral dermatoheliosis. Sure, you're not a truck driver and maybe you're not a rep of sorts, spending more than half of your day in a vehicle on the road, but why put your poor skin cells (who are just trying to do their job) through this kind of damage? Why put your health at risk?

So now that you know this, you'll need to protect yourself. You can have a look at a post I did last year about being sun smart and protecting yourself, here. Many of those facts still apply today. Beautysouthafrica.com did a very interesting and informative update on SA's sunscreen situation. And CANSA have released a list of COLIPA (European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association) compliant sunscreens that are available in South Africa, here.

Now be good to yourself, your skin and your health.

Miss B

*Also known as the basal layer. The deepest layer of the epidermis.

Esse Gel Cleanser

Image from organicchoice.co.za

Esse is a certified organic skin care brand, that utilizes Africa's plant diversity.

I used the Esse Gel Cleanser for a week and my skin was glowing after the first use. It is very gentle, doesn't irritate the skin, and has a very refreshing scent. I have a normal/combination skin, but during the the week that I used this cleanser, I was also suffering from a bit of a PMS breakout on my forehead. It usually takes 4-7 days for this to clear, but in this case, it cleared within 2-3 days. I'm giving all the credit to Esse Gel Cleanser as it's the only thing that was different in my routine.

My skin was also a bit dehydrated before I started using the cleanser, so although my skin looked great, it felt slightly "tight" immediately after cleansing. It wasn't extremely uncomfortable, but I could feel it, especially when I smiled, but after toning and moisturizing, everything was fine. This didn't stop me from using the cleanser though, and it didn't worsen the dehydration during that week, but I prefer using cleansing milks&lotions as I haven't come across a gel cleanser that doesn't make my skin feel at least slightly tight after cleansing. Although this specific cleanser is for "all skin types", I wouldn't advise it for dehydrated and/or dry skin types, unless you prefer gel cleansers to creamy ones, of course. What is your problem with cream cleansers?! They do the same thing...they cleanse your skin. FYI.

It's also a great unisex product, so if you're a man or live with one that happens to cleanse (as you/he should) it is great to share and may save on space/costs. Also, men tend to love that fresh, minty scent that doesn't smell like "girl", and they generally prefer gel/foaming cleansers. It also makes for a great body wash, especially if you're prone to breakouts/acne elsewhere on your body.

Esse Gel Cleanser is pH balanced (4.5) and contains Peppermint and Spearmint Oils which aid in improving micro-circulation, as well as Coconut oil which is known for it's antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Miss B

Waxing 101.5: Bikini Waxing Styles

One of my favourite things to do, ever, unless someone didn't know what they wanted, and then made a decision, changed their mind when it was too late, and left my treatment room unhappy. Other than that I feel like I'm contributing to liberation, by waxing pubes. Judge me all you want. I know I am very good at bikini waxing. I've caused no harm to any of my clients, and I made sure that they were comfortable and that I understood their expectations clearly before starting the treatment.

There are many different styles and names for these styles. In South Africa, there are 4 main "terms" you'll find on treatment menus: Bikini, G-String, Brazilian and Hollywood. They may go by other names in smaller salons and other places around the world but I'll explain each one as best I can.

I thought I'd find some pretty cool animated pics, but there weren't many, so I decided to go with "real people" pics instead. Thought I'd be partially scarred from "Google-imaging" but I think I'm okay. Sigh.

The Bikini wax: (aka The American and Bikini Line wax. Yeah, I don't know, I didn't come up with this shiz)
Removal of all pubic hair that is exposed when you're wearing knickers (bikini-cut) or your swimsuit bottoms. Not everyone wears that style of knickers, so...it's removing the hairs on your upper, inner thighs, most commonly ending at the crease where your thighs meet your labia majora/majus, and sometimes a little from the top, too.

wikipedia.org

It's very neat. If you don't want to wax any further, but think your hair's a bit long, you can always trim it. You could also ask your therapist, but then know that you'll most probably have to remove your underwear.

The extended bikini and G-string wax: Basically removing all the hair that is visible while wearing a G-string. This includes the outer parts of the labia majora. G-string wax very often includes the peri-anal area (your perineum), and sometimes the inside of your butt cheeks. This depends on what you want and on your therapist. Some therapists don't do all this unless you ask, and some just don't. Tell them what you want before you get undressed, so that you're both clear and understood. This could also be referred to as a Brazilian, especially if the hair left makes a rectangular shape down your labia majora.

designerpubes.blogspot.com.
This is done so untidily. I'd never let anyone walk out of my treatment room with a wax like that. In all fairness, this may be regrowth, but still, how not-straight is that strip?!

This (pic above) is a form of the Brazilian wax. Aka the French wax, Landing strip, Californian, Mohican or Playboy.

A brazilian wax may vary from the above pic, to the below pic. Again, you need to be specific about what you want.

zh.wikipedia.org

Although the hair on the labia can be left untouched, as in a G-string wax, Brazilian waxes more commonly mean that your labia majora, peri-anal area, as well as your butt gets waxed. So everything gets removed except for a strip on your mons pubis. This strip may vary in width and length depending on your preferences. You may indicate this to your therapist in "finger spaces" if you so wish. If you do not wish to have your ass waxed, let your therapist know, but I doubt you'll pay any less.

The Triangle wax. Aka The Bermuda triangle or Martini glass: Variation on the Brazilian but instead of a straight line, there's a little triangle that ends at/just before the clitoral hood.

Triangle wax. hairremovaltruth.com

The European or Postage stamp Aka Hitler's moustache (I give up): Another variation on the Brazilian, but this time there's just a patch of hair just above the clitoral hood.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Moustache (I wish I was joking)

Another variation on the Brazilian, except the hair is in a horizontal rectangular shape just above the clitoral hood.

The Heart: The main tuft on the mons pubis is shaped like a heart. It may also be dyed pink. I've never had to do this, I've never been asked. Not sure if I'm offended or happy that I didn't have to spend a lot of time shaping someone's pubic hair into the shape of a heart.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Hollywood (AKA The Sphinx or Bare Wax, sometimes called a "Full Brazilian"): All your hair is removed, including your backside, unless you don't want to. Your vaginal area will be naked, and hopefully smooth.

wikipedia

Don't be afraid to discuss this with your therapist. I know many people are more conservative and modest, but if it makes you feel any better, therapists have seen it all. Everything. And not only have they seen it, they've waxed it. I did most of the bikini waxing when I worked at a spa, and some Saturdays it was all I did from 09:00 - 15:00. Your therapist is not really judging your anatomy (mons pubis/vagina). Every one is different, yet all the same. I don't know, it seemed okay to say "out loud".

If you are comfortable removing your underwear, it will be much easier for your therapist, and will go much faster, as there are no obstructions. Your therapist should always cover the area he/she is not working on with a towel, or at least offer you a towel or robe. You need not remove your underwear for a bikini, but it will help for every other style, as it's easier to judge if both sides are even. It is entirely up to you, though.

If you're interested to see other weird and crazy styles, you can check out designerpubes.blogspot.com.

Miss B