#BeautyTipTuesday: Flyaways

Flyaways. Pssh. I honestly don't know a life without these little buggers. I've had them FOREVER! "Them" as if they're beings. For the most part they don't bother me because I hardly wear such sophisticated and perfect updos that require flyaways be done away with. But sometimes, they drive me nuts, and I wish them away.

I took this a while back when I was checking the frame before recording a beautorial for rubybox...in my pyjamas, my outfit of choice. Also, I had just moisturized and LOVE the finish of Environ's Original Mild Night. It's beautifully soft and semi-matte, as you can see. 

You can see some of the flyaways in the pic above, but it's fairly tamed compared to when I pull my hair all back, and look like I have devil horns made of hair, with a killer Widow's peak.

The best way to tame them, I've found, is to use a disposable mascara brush with some hairspray, as I've done in the sock bun tutorial video. You can see plenty flyaways in the vid, too, that I failed to tame. You don't want flyaways with a sock bun.

I sprayed directly onto my hair and then went over it with a disposable mascara brush, but that takes forever, and not ALL my hair needed/needs to be tamed with a mascara brush, so now I spray directly onto the mascara brush and go over only the flyaways. The best way is to go over the flyaways softly as to not cause a "ripple" or bump where you stop with the brush, possibly upsetting your entire 'do, or creating unevenness. There's no need to press down on your hair with the mascara brush as if you're trying to brush out knots. You can go over the area with your fingers or hand immediately after using the mascara brush, but depending on the hairspray, I try to avoid it. Some strong hold hairsprays can make the hair stick together slightly, like when you use gel, and I don't like that. I don't like gel, and I don't like the sticky, flat, dull look it usually gives.

The Marc Anthony Oil of Morocco Argan Oil Volume Shine Hairspray is particularly good if shine is super important to you. It's very light and has a glossy finish. The staying power (hold), however, is debatable and is more flexible than it is strong. The Kerastase Laque Couture provides more of a hold, by comparison.

Some people use a toothbrush to tame flyaways, but some toothbrushes have rubbery bits in them, and that could pull on your hair, and I have enough broken hair, thanks. Also, I use toothbrushes to clean around taps and plug-holes and drains, and I'd HATE to confuse which toothbrush was used for what and end up using a toothbrush in my hair that was once used to scrub a drain. If you prefer a toothbrush, and can afford to buy an extra one just for your hair, or use an old one (gross), that's all on you, son. Disposable mascara brushes are a great tool to have, and they'll fit perfectly into your sleek clutch. You could also keep mascara brushes from the mascara that you purchase, just be sure to clean it thoroughly when it's time to toss the tube/bottle.

Have any tips on taming flyaways? Share below in the comments. :-)


Miss B

Sock Bun Tutorial

Hey hey hey!

Happy Friday. :-)

I made another hair tutorial for rubybox. Yay! This time it's a sock bun...with a twist. The lazy-girl-guide, even. Not because I'm super lazy, but because after trying to do the traditional sock bun with all the wrapping and rolling for a few days (and still didn't get it right), the hair breakage became too much for me to handle, and my hair was everywhere. EVERYWHERE! My hair was as visible as my dogs' hair. I have 3 dogs, one of which is a Golden Retriever.



In the video I used the Marc Anthony Oil of Morocco Argan Oil Volume Shine Hairspray and rubybox Hair Pearl & Satin Alice Band Duo as well as their Flower Alice Band. The one I have is more like a head band (elasticated), not that I used it that way, anyway.

Products I used on my hair:

Kerastase Dermo-Calm Shampoo
Kerastase Cristalliste Conditioner
ghd Heat Protect Spray
PARLUX Eco-Friendly 3800 Ceramic Ionic hair dryer
Some extra-large barrel brush my mom gave me. She doesn't remember the details.
Kerastase Elixir Ultime


Hope you have a great weekend. Try this easy-peasy sock bun and let me know how much you love it or hate it. I love pics, too. Of your hair and sock buns ONLY, please.


Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Minimize Hair in the Shower Drain

I wanted to say this is a hair tip, but "hygiene tip" would probably be more accurate.

I have long hair, so finding at least one strand of my hair in every room is highly possible. Multiply that by a hundred (or couple of hundred) and you basically have an idea of what my shower looks like after I wash my hair. Well, what my shower looked like years ago, especially during stressful times. Past tense. And although I love cleaning, I'm so not a drain-cleaning kinda gal. Sure, I'd pull my hair out of the drain, and then cut all my nails and scrub it with a nail brush because, depending how long it's been there, you get other bits of gross stuff, too: dust, soap, crap. Eeuw.

Everyone's hair will reach the end of it's life cycle and it will come out a couple of times in our lives, but I think I've got this shower-drain business waxed.

How to minimize the amount of hair in the shower drain:
(This also applies to head hair left on your body, between your butt cheeks and between your toes when you're done washing...)

1) Brush/comb your hair BEFORE you wash it. By doing this, you're brushing out the "loose" hairs that have already detached from your papilla which supplies its nourishment. These hairs may have come out while washing/rinsing your hair. And please, clean your brushes/combs regularly.

2) When you wash your hair, do so from root to tip and when you get to the ends, grab all the unattached hairs that usually hang from the ends. Bundle 'em up and put them aside in the shower, or throw them out of the shower. Whatever works for you. I usually twirl it around my index finger and put it in the corner of the shower where the door opens. Mainly so that I don't forget to take it out, which sometimes happens anyway. Sorry, Man Person.

3) Same applies for rinsing and conditioner application, even if you apply your conditioner from mid-length. As well as for that additional rinse you do at the end before getting out of the shower. I see you.

4) When you squeeze out the water from your hair before getting out or towel-drying, DO NOT wring your hair. This can cause breakage, and who wants that? Don't pull it too hard, either. Just do that "sexy hair washing" motion that people do on ads and in the movies. Go from your forehead/hairline, as if you're gathering your hair to tie a ponytail. And squeeze your hair out in sections as you move down your "ponytail". And when you get to the ends, grab the unattached hair before it falls into the shower, and ends up in the drain.

5) Check the shower floor. It's so much better picking up hairs on the floor than digging in the drain. It's possible that one or a few hairs may have escaped you, so look down for a second and pick it up.

6) So a few hairs ended up in the drain cover/screen/strainer thingy (what is that thing called?)... It's not as much as it could've been. Take it out if you have no issues. If you're squeamish, use a tissue or toilet paper. I'll admit to have using a toothpick to lift the hairs out of the drain and then either put it in the bin or flush it down the toilet.

7) Remember to remove it from the shower, or the shower mat, or wherever you decided to put it; especially if you share a home/bathroom with others.

It sounds like a lot of effort, but if takes less than a minute in total, versus being on your hands and knees scratching in the drain. Ain't nobody got the time, surn. If you weren't clearing your hair from the shower/drain before, you'll need to clean it first. Starting to twirl and bundle up your hair now is not going to clear the crap in the drain from the last year. You may even need some drain cleaner, but you should probably get advice about that from someone else. I will not be held responsible for inappropriate drain cleaning fluids ruining your pipes and water disposal system, sorry. I don't know much about this, I have a pair of gloves, a bucket and a reasonable retching reflex on most days. I kick it old school. And I love the word 'retching'. Retching. Retch retch retch. Retch for the stars. Haha. Gross. Sorry.

Do you have any tips and tricks on how to minimize the amount of hair going into the shower drain? Please feel free to share in the comments section.



Miss B

My Hair Issues and an Updo Tutorial

I have long hair and hardly do anything more than wear it down, in a ponytail or in a bun (often a messy one). I'm also that kind of girl that goes to the hair salon and tells the stylist something like: "I'm so bored with my hair. I want something different, but don't change anything. You know what I mean?" I don't colour my hair, I've layered it a few times and I've had a fringe, but I have a love-hate relationship with these things. I like my hair one-length, it's easy for me to manage. What's easier than wash-and-go hair? My last two visits to the hairdresser were funny. One stylist sat on the floor while trimming my ends. The chair was at it's highest and she didn't want to have to bend over at an angle, only to not be able to see what she's doing properly. The other, who I've been going to on-and-off for years actually sighed and then asked what I would like to do with my "mermaid hair", if anything. As if I didn't already know I was kind of boring...boring hit me in the face and for a long time I've been wanting to step up my hair game. Mainly, just learn to style it differently.

So, I learned a few simple and quick things to do without pushing myself too far out of my comfort zone. I like the elaborate 'dos, but many of them require styling products, and the less I use, the better, to be frank. Note: I don't have a great track record with hairspray. I hate those strong hold sprays that make your hair so dull and crispy that when you take down your up-style, it feels like you've put your hand into a bag of Lays Lightly Salted and just crunched up/squashed the chips in your hand like you're mad at it. It also, somehow, always ends up in my throat via inhalation or phantom ingestion.

Last month, rubybox challenged me with this, by requesting me to do a quick and easy up'do as a RUBYROYAL. And so I huffed and puffed and blew my hair out...nicely, for a change.


                 

Products I used in the video, as well as my current hair routine:

Kerastase Cristalliste Shampoo will set you forward about *R255 (250 ml) and *R275 (200 ml) for the conditioner.

Kerastase Cristalliste Shampoo and Conditioner for long, thick hair. I don't have "thick hair" but it still worked nicely and wasn't heavy at all. I felt the difference in my hair the second I started rinsing out the shampoo. My wet hair felt smoother already. I was using the Kerastase Dermo-Calm before this one, which is also great for more sensitive scalps. My scalp gets funny every season change with my allergies and all, so this gentle scalp cleanser is a regular for me, and I alternate when needs be.

Kerastase Mousse Bouffante, 150 ml retails at about *R260

Kerastase Mousse Bouffante (strong hold): my new obsession. It's part of the Prado Blue / Customized Construction / Designer range, within their new Couture Styling range, which is designed to be used on towel-dried hair. I only applied it in a horseshoe shape around my crown for the video. It works best if you apply it to damp hair, just before you blow-dry that area. Don't apply it all over your head and then leave it while you dry your hair section by section, it will become a little sticky and harder to work with and blow out. If you like lots of volume (read: high hair) then blow-dry the relevant sections of hair up and forward (or in the opposite direction you want it to fall), and when you're done with that piece, just gooi it back. This product (and others in the range) also provides heat protection, thanks to a Xylose agent, so you don't have to worry about applying yet another product before heat styling. It also provides UVA/UVB protection which is still way too underrated, in my opinion. (And thank goodness, because I've been using a sun protection hair CREAM, which is not ideal for fresh-hair-longevity and volume.) We always see sunscreen and UV protection products for face and body, and not enough for scalp and hair, leaving it unprotected and vulnerable to sunburn and UV damage. Two thumbs up from me, Kerastase.

All the products in the new Couture Styling range are said to provide hold, but still allow for the natural movement and flexibility of the hair, thanks to micronized polymers and their shape memory. The products also contain Vitamin E, one of my favourite vitamins/antioxidants. And may I just say that I absolutely LOVE the colours and product packaging. It's gorgeous.

Kerastase Elixir Ultime Retails at *R450

After drying, I always apply the Kerastase Elixir Ultime from mid-length to the ends, and whatever's left on my hands, I run through from the roots. You can read more about how I love and use this product HERE.

Slightly messy with bits and pieces coming out, but you can do it more "tightly" and neater. I was going for "effortless".

I then made the low-knot bun with a twist, and set with Kerastase Laque Couture Micro Mist Fixing Lacquer (medium hold):

Kerastase Laque Couture 300ml retails at about *R260

This hairspray is UH!-mazing. It falls under the Violet Vision / Perfect Finish / Perfector range - to be used on dried and styled hair - also as part of the Couture Styling range. Firstly, I didn't choke after spraying, and there was no phantom ingestion. It has a very light scent, and there was no hair hardness, whatsoever. YESSSSSS! You spray it onto your dry, styled hair from about 20-30cm away, and off you go, owning the day/night/life/universe. In the video above, I had probably done the low-knot bun thrice and sprayed it every single time before shooting the intro, and you can see that my hair still has lots of movement. A few kinks and bumps from knotting and twisting and bunning, but no Stepford-Wife-hair action. The really nice thing about these products is that unless you're really paranoid/obedient/self-conscious about washing your hair and product build-up, this won't weigh it down and need to be washed out immediately, when you've returned from owning the day/night/life/universe. If you wash your hair every 3 days, using this won't make you need to wash your hair after 1 or 2 days. So, it's great for everyday use, if you like rocking cool hairstyles errrday. It's perfect for loose curls/waves, too. Hello, summer, beachy hair. Although, there are other products specifically for that function. The Laque Couture provides the same protection as mentioned above for the Mousse Bouffante, and has the same benefits.

You can check out other products from the Kerastase Couture Styling Range in CONSTRUCT and FINISH. Sigh, I want everything. I've got my eye firmly fixed (ha!) on the Forme Fatale Bodifying All-Over Gel (Construct) and the Gloss Appeal Instant Shine and Top Coat Spray (Finish), though. The Kerastase Initialiste Advanced Scalp and Hair Concentrate, a skincare inspired super serum, has been on my wish list for a few months now, too.

With these side-kicks, I think I should get over my crispy Lays hair fears and will try a few more elaborate up'dos. What are your favourite up'dos and which do you think I should try?


Miss B
* Prices at time of purchase/publishing. Prices are subject to change and may differ depending on retailer.
Kerastase Cristalliste Shampoo and Conditioner, Mousse Bouffante and Laque Couture were sent to me by rubybox for the purpose of demonstrating an updo for their video channel. I did this review because I have been using Kerastase for more than a year now, at my own expense, and am thoroughly impressed with their products. All of the above are now staples in my routine. This is not a requested or sponsored post. See more about my reviews HERE.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime

Retails for about R405.
Pic from kerastase.co.uk

I have a bad case of the flyaways. It's like my baby hairs along my hair line just won't grow up. Updos have become a no-go, because I hate the after-effects of firm hold hairspray and gel. My hair feels and sounds crispy when I try to loosen it. Too sexy. It's like I'm putting my hand into a bag of chips and just crushing it! Lays, specifically.

I was "introduced" to this product by a friend who couldn't help raving about it, because she loved it so much. I was a bit hesitant to buy this product at first, especially since there are so many other hair silicone and oil products on the market at much more affordable prices. I went for a hair consultation, and the stylist used this product after the blowout and I almost didn't recognize myself without flyaways. That, and I clearly applied my blush like I was mad at my face..in the dark. I was so excited, I even tied up my hair into a high pony...after a PROFESSIONAL blowout. It was THAT amazing. Why would you want to tie up your hair after a professional blowout, right?! I have never...before that day.

It's multi-tasking abilities also grabbed my attention. It can be used on damp hair before styling (for shine, as an anti-frizz and as a leave-in conditioner. It's NOT a heat protector) and after styling, to smooth strands and flyways. It can also be used before shampooing as a pre-cleanse. My stylist explained that if you use a lot of styling products, you can apply a pump or 2 of Elixir Ultime through your hair a few minutes before shampooing to loosen product build up, as well as nourish the length thereof. Doubt I'll ever use it that way, as I'm a lazy-hair kinda girl, but it's good to know. It's also very light, doesn't weigh my fine hair down, and it doesn't even leave that horrible oily residue on my hands after I apply it. You can also apply a little everyday if you so wish. I tried this for 3 days, and it didn't make my hair oilier faster than usual. My hair was still okay after 3 days. It looked exactly like my 2-day-old hair. 

You can read more about the application of Kérastase Elixir Ultime here. They even have short videos for every possible way you could use this product.

Kérastase Elixir Ultime contains a complex of four oils (among other things):

• Pracaxi oil for conditioning
• Argan oil for nourishing
• Maize oil for moisturizing and antioxidant properties. Maize oil also has Omega fatty acids which is essential for optimal cell functioning.
• Camellia oil for it's rejuvenating properties, as well as lovely fragrance.

Although this product is all-around wonderful, it's not as effective for flyaways if you're not doing any kind of heat styling, as I later discovered. It definitely makes a difference, don't get me wrong, but if I don't blow-dry or flat-iron my "front hairs" in conjunction with using Elixir Ultime, those little nasties will still be visible, albeit not as bad as if I used nothing. So... Still in search for a great product that I can use on my non-heat-styled hair for flyaways. I want to wash and go, and maybe gooi it in a bun or high pony, without looking like I have horns. It can be that bad, yes.

What products do you rate for flyaways? Preferably, something that won't make my hair feel hard' n'crispy.

Miss B

Waxing 101.5: Bikini Waxing Styles

One of my favourite things to do, ever, unless someone didn't know what they wanted, and then made a decision, changed their mind when it was too late, and left my treatment room unhappy. Other than that I feel like I'm contributing to liberation, by waxing pubes. Judge me all you want. I know I am very good at bikini waxing. I've caused no harm to any of my clients, and I made sure that they were comfortable and that I understood their expectations clearly before starting the treatment.

There are many different styles and names for these styles. In South Africa, there are 4 main "terms" you'll find on treatment menus: Bikini, G-String, Brazilian and Hollywood. They may go by other names in smaller salons and other places around the world but I'll explain each one as best I can.

I thought I'd find some pretty cool animated pics, but there weren't many, so I decided to go with "real people" pics instead. Thought I'd be partially scarred from "Google-imaging" but I think I'm okay. Sigh.

The Bikini wax: (aka The American and Bikini Line wax. Yeah, I don't know, I didn't come up with this shiz)
Removal of all pubic hair that is exposed when you're wearing knickers (bikini-cut) or your swimsuit bottoms. Not everyone wears that style of knickers, so...it's removing the hairs on your upper, inner thighs, most commonly ending at the crease where your thighs meet your labia majora/majus, and sometimes a little from the top, too.

wikipedia.org

It's very neat. If you don't want to wax any further, but think your hair's a bit long, you can always trim it. You could also ask your therapist, but then know that you'll most probably have to remove your underwear.

The extended bikini and G-string wax: Basically removing all the hair that is visible while wearing a G-string. This includes the outer parts of the labia majora. G-string wax very often includes the peri-anal area (your perineum), and sometimes the inside of your butt cheeks. This depends on what you want and on your therapist. Some therapists don't do all this unless you ask, and some just don't. Tell them what you want before you get undressed, so that you're both clear and understood. This could also be referred to as a Brazilian, especially if the hair left makes a rectangular shape down your labia majora.

designerpubes.blogspot.com.
This is done so untidily. I'd never let anyone walk out of my treatment room with a wax like that. In all fairness, this may be regrowth, but still, how not-straight is that strip?!

This (pic above) is a form of the Brazilian wax. Aka the French wax, Landing strip, Californian, Mohican or Playboy.

A brazilian wax may vary from the above pic, to the below pic. Again, you need to be specific about what you want.

zh.wikipedia.org

Although the hair on the labia can be left untouched, as in a G-string wax, Brazilian waxes more commonly mean that your labia majora, peri-anal area, as well as your butt gets waxed. So everything gets removed except for a strip on your mons pubis. This strip may vary in width and length depending on your preferences. You may indicate this to your therapist in "finger spaces" if you so wish. If you do not wish to have your ass waxed, let your therapist know, but I doubt you'll pay any less.

The Triangle wax. Aka The Bermuda triangle or Martini glass: Variation on the Brazilian but instead of a straight line, there's a little triangle that ends at/just before the clitoral hood.

Triangle wax. hairremovaltruth.com

The European or Postage stamp Aka Hitler's moustache (I give up): Another variation on the Brazilian, but this time there's just a patch of hair just above the clitoral hood.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Moustache (I wish I was joking)

Another variation on the Brazilian, except the hair is in a horizontal rectangular shape just above the clitoral hood.

The Heart: The main tuft on the mons pubis is shaped like a heart. It may also be dyed pink. I've never had to do this, I've never been asked. Not sure if I'm offended or happy that I didn't have to spend a lot of time shaping someone's pubic hair into the shape of a heart.

bodywaxingkits.com

The Hollywood (AKA The Sphinx or Bare Wax, sometimes called a "Full Brazilian"): All your hair is removed, including your backside, unless you don't want to. Your vaginal area will be naked, and hopefully smooth.

wikipedia

Don't be afraid to discuss this with your therapist. I know many people are more conservative and modest, but if it makes you feel any better, therapists have seen it all. Everything. And not only have they seen it, they've waxed it. I did most of the bikini waxing when I worked at a spa, and some Saturdays it was all I did from 09:00 - 15:00. Your therapist is not really judging your anatomy (mons pubis/vagina). Every one is different, yet all the same. I don't know, it seemed okay to say "out loud".

If you are comfortable removing your underwear, it will be much easier for your therapist, and will go much faster, as there are no obstructions. Your therapist should always cover the area he/she is not working on with a towel, or at least offer you a towel or robe. You need not remove your underwear for a bikini, but it will help for every other style, as it's easier to judge if both sides are even. It is entirely up to you, though.

If you're interested to see other weird and crazy styles, you can check out designerpubes.blogspot.com.

Miss B

Waxing 101.4: Re-growth

waxmehappy.com

The time it takes for the hair to grow back after waxing varies for individuals. Some say it depends on the stage of hair growth that your hair is in when you get waxed. For example, if your hair is in the active growing (Anagen) stage, you'll be hair free through the 2 other stages of hair gowth, Catagen (transitional stage) and Telogen (resting stage), until the cycle is back at Anagen. I don't agree with this.

The Anagen stage involves complete rebuilding of the hair follicle and may take from 3 months to years. The Catagen stage takes place after a period of growth (Anagen stage) where the follicle degenerates while the hair is still rooted in it, because the dermal papilla (nutrient&oxygen/blood supply) withdraws from the hair matrix. The Telogen stage is the resting period, and "old" hairs either lie dormant or are shed by friction.

Each follicle (about 5 million on the human body) goes through this cycle of hair growth in it's own time or we'd shed like animals. So when one follicle is in the Anagen stage, the one directly next to it may be in the Telogen stage and so on. That's why within a week after waxing, you may see hairs appearing. It probably wasn't long enough for the wax to get hold of it the previous week. It is also possible that the hair was broken off during waxing, but if this is the case, there'll be more than a few random ones, it would be an entire area. When a hair is broken off, the tip will be harder and more blunt than a re-grown hair. The re-growth will be tapered and somewhat "softer". Please note that, if you've shaved before deciding to start waxing, the re-growth after your first (and perhaps second) waxing session may be hard, and feel/like you've shaved it, and may grow back within or after a week. Your body is not used to waxing, and it acts defensively. Your hair is there for a reason (mainly pheromones, but also protection), and when it is removed, your body tries to "repair" the "damage". When your body senses that hair has been removed, it activates the growth cells, and your hair reverts to the Anagen stage, no matter what stage it was in when you had it waxed. So how do you deal with this?

You have to maintain a regular interval between waxing. Or at least try. I've seen great results with an interval of 3-4 weeks. Your hair grows 0,1-0,5 mm per day, and you need about one centimetre of hair above the surface for it be removed efficiently. It is possible to remove shorter hairs with wax, but for best removal, it should be about 5mm-1cm. I know there are some people who are very meticulous about waxing every second week, when there are all of 10 hairs in sight, but if you can help it, give it an extra week. This way, there'll be fewer re-growth hairs a few days after your waxing session. It is also important to follow after-care and home-care advice to get the best out of this hair removal method.

Will your hair get finer? The hair will seem finer and softer, and you'll notice that after a while, the hair grows back in patches. The hair at the back of my legs grows back so much slower than the hair on the front of my legs. It takes about 2-3 weeks for the hairs on my legs to start showing, make that 6 weeks for the hair at the back of my legs. For my first year of regular waxing, I'd wax my legs every week and a half to two weeks, because my hair was long enough to wax. You'll find that the longer you (continue to) wax, the more time you can allow between appointments. Also, with underarm waxes, I've noticed (especially with regular clients) that the hair along the perimeter of the area waxed grows back slower and a lot finer than the hairs at the centre of the same area. So it varies from person to person, and on the area being treated. There are also products available to assist in slowing down and weakening re-growth:

Veet Hair Minimising Body Moisturiser claims to "slow down the appearance of hair re-growth." I've never used this but I've heard from a friend that it's "so awesome" and she could tell the difference in a month. Someone else I asked preferred her regular body lotion. If you have tried this, let me know how it's worked for you. I've seen it at Clicks, PnP and Spar.

sofeminine.co.uk

Depileve's DepilMousse is used to "accelerate the weakening of the hair"

smartbuy.co.za

Depileve's Plant Extract Serum "helps to continue the anti-keratinization process" This is very nice, and is very gentle on the skin, even just immediately after waxing when the skin tends to be more sensitive.

sears.com

Depileve's Intimate Folisan is great if you're prone to ingrown hairs, especially along the bikini line. It contains acetylsalicylic acid and smells like glue. Seriously. It smells horrible, but it works well, especially for little red bumps that often accompany ingrown hairs. Sometimes I  use it on really bad breakouts (on my face) as a spot treatment (screw you PMS), but I wouldn't recommend doing this on very sensitive skin.

salonfirst.com.au

Depileve products should be available at your skincare clinic/salon. If you don't go to a specific one, you could always call and find out if they stock it.


Remember, the better you look after your skin/hair and follow home-care advice, the better the results you can achieve with waxing.

Miss B

Waxing 101.3: Before, During and After

This is all about what you are resposible for pre- and post-waxing. Yes, this is important.  I'll also touch on what can happen during a waxing treatment, and how to deal with it.

Before:

1. Exfoliate in upward, circular motion two days before your waxing appointment. This is a great way to lift the hairs, especially those that lie flat against the skin. This is also great for those hairs that are ingrown just beneath the skin. Often there are hairs that grow parallel to (but underneath) the skin, so you can see the hair, but can't really "feel"/touch it. Exfoliation removes the dead, top layer of skin to expose the underlying in-growns.*

2. If you shower/bath before your waxing appointment, make sure the water is not HOT. You can have a warm shower or bath, but not hot. Also make sure that there'll be 20-30 minutes between your shower/bath and your appointment, so that your body temperature can normalize. Your skin must be at normal temperature when the wax is applied to avoid discomfort, and a negative, possibly severe reaction. Also, don't bother applying body lotion to the area that's going to be waxed. If it's your underarms, skip the roll-on/deodorant/antiperspirant. It's going to be removed anyway.

3. If your appointment is for early morning, or you plan on having a nap before the time, make sure that you allow at least 20 minutes after waking before your appointment. While you're asleep, your body processes continue, and often your skin "puffs up", which is why you need to allow time for it to "settle" back to normal before your treatment, to allow for the best hair removal results, especially regarding the shorter hairs.

4. If you frequent saunas/steam rooms/sunbeds/tan-cans or enjoy soaking up the sun (which I don't encourage) you have to wait about 4 days prior to waxing. I explained this in Waxing 101.1.

5. Self-tan. Waxing could make your self tan look patchy and streaky, so it is best to apply self-tan a couple of days after waxing. I'd advise 3-4 days after, so that you can exfoliate before applying it.

6. Avoid a booze-filled night out the day before your appointment. And avoid the morning coffee while you're at it. Caffeine and alcohol are stimulants and raises the acidity level in your body, making skin more sensitive, and more prone to redness, inflammation and irritation. Alcohol also thins the blood, which is not ideal for clotting, especially in cases of blood spots/ pinprick bleeds. Blood spots or pinprick bleeding is caused by blood rising up the hair follicle when the hair is pulled/removed from the root. The root of the hair is attached to a dermal papilla which supplies the hair with oxygen and nutrients via the blood. So...Have a cup of tea, or water, instead.

7. Take painkillers 30 minutes before your treatment, if you so wish. It is really not necessary, but it could help. You could take medication containing ibuprofen or paracetamol. Please avoid Aspirin/Disprin as they have antiplatelet effects, which could inhibit blood clotting. See point 6. 

8. Don't "ice numb" the area to be waxed, it will make it more painful, by tightening/contracting your pores.

During:

1. Relax. I know for some people it's hard to do, especially during a bikini wax, but it will hurt a lot less if you just get over it..

2. You may have pinprick bleeds, or blood spots. This is normal. It doesn't necessarily indicate bad technique. I've explained why/how this happens above in point 6 under "Before", as well as in Waxing 101.1

3. If you feel any discomfort at all, such as burning and tingling, you need to tell the therapist immediately. IMMEDIATELY. You could be having a reaction that may not be visible yet, or he/she may have burned you accidentally, or pulled/lifted skin. You need to speak up as soon as it happens/you feel it, so that the therapist can take the necessary steps. If something unfortunate has happened, the therapist should advise you on what you can do at home to take care of the problem, or avoid further problems.

4. You may battle with Urticaria (aka Hives). Characterized by red, raised, itchy welts on the skin's surface, often caused by an allergic reaction, but there are non-allergic causes. I'm not sure where I fall under here, but I suffer from this. And although it would probably be best to not wax at all, I hate shaving (a lot!) and I can't afford regular IPL. Yet, anyway. It is FANTASTIC, by the way. So...I'll take it. Mine clears within a day or two (acute case), but it may last longer than 6 weeks if it's chronic. I hope it never escalates to that. There's not much you can do, but take an antihistamine (preferably before waxing), and follow all the after-care/home-care advice.
Here are few pics of my legs after waxing:

This is 5-10 minutes after waxing. You can clearly see that the bumps are raised. Unfortunately you can't see how red it is. Camera-flash and the fact that I took these myself. Sigh.

This is about 45 minutes after waxing, and you can see that it's starting to settle. The bumps are not as raised and pronounced, although still very visible.

About an hour and a half later. Bumps are starting to disappear, even if very slowly and in patches. Sigh

It is not extremely painful, but it tingles, can be itchy, and is very hot to the touch.

After:

1. Do not wear tight-fitted clothing after your wax. This will irritate your skin, especially certain synthetic materials. Wear light/loose clothing, preferably cotton, but any loose clothing will do. This includes underwear when waxing your bikini area. Don't wear your cute, tight, lace panties for 24 hours. Tight underwear should be avoided generally, but since very few of us can resist, it is important to follow point 7 (below), and perhaps sleep commando. Tight underwear also encourages ingrown hairs* by placing pressure (however slight) on the skin prohibiting the hairs from surfacing as they usually would.

2. Do not do heavy/high-impact/cardio exercises 24 hours after waxing. Fun times, right? When you exercise, your circulation is increased, resulting in heat and perspiration. Because your pores will still be dilated/open, your skin will still be sensitive to heat, and could become more sensitivite, and possibly infected.

3. No hot showers and baths for 24 hours after waxing. For the same reasons as point 2. You may have warm showers/baths, but not hot, you can cause extreme discomfort to your skin (and yourself)

4. No swimming. No beach. No pool. Your pores are dilated, both salt and chlorine will irritate your skin. You could break out in defence, and experience tingling and/or burning on the waxed area. Wait about 2 days.

Points 3 and 4 also apply to steam rooms, saunas, jacuzzis, and all other heat/water activities. I know, "Why don't you just lock me up in a cold storage unit?!" Because this will also be uncomfortable and cause irritation to your skin. It is painful to get cold after waxing. Arrector/Erector pili muscles are small muscles attached to the hair follicle, all over your body, and contract when you are cold causing your hairs to stand-up and give you "goosebumps". Whenever I wax my legs, I have to walk around in shorts and skirts for 24-48 hours because my skin is so sensitive, and I can tell you that it f****** hurts when I get cold. And obviously I got cold, because I was probably walking around in the smallest shorts/skirt (if anything) ever, and I often have to go outside at night, to check that my pup empties her bladder before bed. Yeah, boohoo for me, right?!

5. No sun exposure for at least 24 hours. Your skin will be sensitized by waxing, and prone to hyper-pigmentation during this time. Apply a sunscreen, regularly. And by "regularly", I mean EVERY DAY.

6. Also, no heavily scented and coloured body lotions. Fragranced products may irritate your skin. Coloured body lotions may cause temporary discolouration of your skin, depending on your skin and sensitivity. I'd advise Bio Oil, but my skin is especially sensitive after waxing, and even Bio Oil gives me that tingling/burning sensation on my legs. A baby lotion, or aqueous cream should be fine, though. If you've got a soothing lotion or gel with ingredients such as Aloe Vera, it should be perfect. Do a little test patch on the area and wait 20 minutes to make sure you won't react before applying it all over. If you're unsure, it's okay to not apply anything (the therapist should have applied an after wax lotion, anyway), and continue as you normally would the next day. I do it all the time. Update: You can also use an after-sun product, be it a milk, gel or lotion. After-sun products are usually very light in texture and very absorbent. They also contain skin-soothing and -calming ingredients.

7. No exfoliation for 3 days after waxing: may irritate your skin. Exfoliation is very important. You have to exfoliate every 2-3 days after the initial one, 3 days after waxing. *

8. No sexual activity for 24 hours. For reals. I'm not joking. While your pores are dilated (yawn), your skin is prone to irritation by (extreme) temperature changes in/on your body, friction, and bacterial infection. So, no, not even oral sex is okay during this time. Just avoid it.  Unless, of course, you can have sex without your body temperature changing and without friction. And if you can do this, congratulations. *pops champagne*

9. When doing facial waxes, avoid makeup application on the area for at least 24 hours. If you absolutely have to, and there's no other way, apply an antiseptic cream first, and then your makeup.

10. Deodorant and antiperspirant products should be avoided for 12 hours after waxing underarms, to prevent irritation. If you have to use something because you're going out or to an event, etc, use an alcohol free product, with minimal fragrance. I use Nivea Pure (I think) and I have had no negative (or any) reactions. Update: I've also not had any negative reaction from using Dove's Invisible Dry Anti-White Marks roll-on.

11. If you've had a bikini wax and make use of any kind of vaginal sprays/products, avoid it for at least 24 hours to prevent potential irritation. If you're on medical treatment and have to use it daily, best you consult with your medical professional as well as your therapist, and find a suitable solution.


*Ingrown hairs may initially look like a fine rash, or pimples (papule). You may or may not be able to see the hair in the pimple. If the hair is not released, the follicle may become infected and pus-filled.
During waxing, dead, keratinized skin cells are removed from the skin's surface along with the hair. As the hairs are growing back, new skin cells are keratinizing (ongoing process). By the time that the new hairs are ready to appear on the surface, the "new" skin cells are fully keratinized and may cover the follicle opening on the skin's surface. Because re-growth hairs are much finer and softer after waxing, it is not strong enough to push through the keratinized cells that now cover the follicle opening, and the hairs then grow parallel to the the skin's surface, underneath the keratinized cells, or they make a U-turn and grow down towards the root. They may also hit the side wall of the follicle. This is why exfoliation is important between waxing treatments.

I hope this helps you. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to add them in the comments section below.

In waxing 101.4, I'll talk about hair re-growth after waxing, and perhaps go into different styles of bikini waxing. :-)

Miss B

This is a very popular post, please read the post and the comments before you comment asking a question that has already been asked and answered. I'm not always able to

respond immediately, and the info, questions and responses already available could save you some time and waiting. As always, your questions and comments are always welcome.

Waxing 101.2: Types of Wax

pic from sweetmadamblue.wordpress.com

Now that you understand the consultation and contraindications, let's get to the types of wax available.

Strip/cool/cold wax: (all the same thing)
Solid but sticky when cold. Usually comes in tins.
Melting point and working temperature of 43°C. *
It's applied thinly in direction of hair growth (e.g. applied down the leg), and removed, with a strip, against the hair growth. So the strip is removed/"pulled" up the leg.

Strip wax. Image from skin2nvdebi.com

This method is great for areas such as the legs, arms, back, chest (in most cases).
Many therapists prefer to use strip wax on the face, especially for upper lip and eyebrow waxes. I, personally, do not. It is not advisable to reapply strip wax on the same area more than once, and often it is necessary, especially with more stubborn facial hairs. This type of wax is much better for finer/thin hairs. Some therapists are really great with strip wax, no matter what the treatment area is, but I've seen and experienced too many things go wrong with this method. I've had skin burnt and ripped on my eye area (upper eyelids), upper lip, underarms and bikini. YES, bikini! Even legs, but that was at college, so it's kind of forgivable, as that is where most of us made most of our mistakes, I hope!

Hot wax:

Solid when cold.May come in the form of pellets and/or slabs/blocks. Melting point and working temperature is about 68°C *
Requires thick application in opposite direction to hair growth. So it is applied against the hair. So if your hair is growing down, the wax will be applied upwards, against the growth. Smaller patches are advisable.
For those who aren't familiar with hot wax, it looks like smooth cake batter (in prettier colours) and is applied to the treatment area. It is then left for a couple of seconds, to "set" (become firmer/harder, but not rock hard, as then it would crack on removal. This is a sign of heat damaged wax.) and then removed/pulled off. No strips required.

Hot wax when melted. Image from allwomenstalk.com

This is great for underarm, face (eye, upper lip, chin) and bikini. I've had minimal to no problems with this method, especially on the face. My main problem/concern with this method is heat destruction and poor quality wax, which is why you need to go to a professional place. You have every right to ask questions.

Film wax:

Best of both. It has the lowest working temperature* and is applied like strip wax in direction of hair growth, and removed against the hair growth. It has the consistency of hot wax, but is not applied as thickly, and can be removed by either strip, or after it has set, as with hot wax. Can be used on most areas. It's very nice for face and the top part of your bikini area (for those who remove most hair to everything.) It is also great for people with more sensitive skin, especially to heat. Film wax is also not as popular as it should be, so know that not every salon will have/use it.

One of the best waxing brands around. Depileve never disappoints. depileve.com

<Miss B

*Melting and working temperatures may differ from brand to brand. Depileve, for example, have lower working temperatures for their wax products. Their film wax has a working temperature of 39°C.

Waxing 101.1: Consultation & Contraindications

Image from  conflictedfeminist.blogspot.com

Waxing is a popular, convenient, and somewhat economical option for de-fuzzing and many people do it...without knowing much about it.

The first thing that comes to mind for many is pain. One's pain threshold is higher later in the day, so if it's your first time, and you're scared, make your appointment for 3PM or later. You could also take painkillers about an hour before your appointment. You really don't need the prescription medication, unless Myprodol requires a prescription? I don't remember, haven't taken it in YEARS! Panado, Grandpa, Ponstel and Neurofen should be okay. The first time is the worst, I promise. Unless something bad (burns, skin pulling/ripping, bad reaction) happens after that. I've had all of the above, and I don't wish it upon ANYONE.

Making the appointment:

PLEASE go to a qualified professional therapist/salon for this service. Especially if it is your first time. If not, I have no problems with student salons (where health and skin care professionals in-the-making get some experience and mainly "practise" for their exams, etc) but don't expect a five star, perfect waxing session in record time. They're still learning, and need the practise and hours, so they may be a bit slow, and sometimes make mistakes. They need to, that's how/where they learn. Also know that you have the right to ask to see a therapists qualification. If the salon/therapist can't provide it, then you are NOT obligated to make use of the salon's/therapist's services.

If it is not possible to go in before the time for a consultation to discuss the procedure and your concerns, ask for 15 minutes extra when booking your appointment, to do this. In this time, make sure you understand everything BEFORE the treatment starts. If you need the therapist to tell you step by step, for reassurance, ask him/her to do so. It's your right. 

If your salon of choice doesn't require you to fill out a consultation/indemnity form before ANY treatment, walk out immediately. Just go. These forms are highly important and protect you and the salon/spa/therapist. Also, it contains emergency information in case something unforeseen happens., accidents which require medical attention and so on. It also communicates your medical history and contraindications which prohibits you from going through with the treatment. I cannot stress this enough.

Here is an example of a waxing specific client consultation card:

www.itecworld.co.uk

Contraindications explained:

Haemophilia: Blood disorder where one's body can't control blood coagulation and clotting. When waxed, the hair is pulled out from the root. The root is attached to a dermal papilla, which supplies the hair with nourishment and oxygen via the blood. That's why some people get "blood spots" after waxing, as the blood is "rising up" the follicle when the hair is yanked from it. People with haemophilia may not stop bleeding (in this case) without medical help. Also, haemophiliacs tend to bruise very easily. Waxing is not ideal. Medical consent needed.

Medical Oedema: excessive accumulation of fluid in cells/tissues/cavities. This is usually caused by an underlying issue. Strictly medical. Waxing may cause discomfort, and/or exacerbate the condition. Medical consent needed. Also applies to general swelling and undiagnosed lumps and bumps.

Osteoporosis: Also medical. Bones are porous, brittle and fragile. This affects all structures above it. Pressure is often applied in waxing as "support" when removing the wax, also afterwards to soothe the skin. This may cause discomfort. Medical consent is essential.

Recent operations and/or scar tissue: Clients should wait at least 6 months before a treatment on the area (2 years for major operations). Waxing could interfere with the natural healing process, be very uncomfortable and painful.  Also applies to fractures, sprains, broken bones. Medical consent needed, especially since healing process times may differ from person to person, and you may need longer than 6 months.

Diabetes: Diabetics often have defective circulation, so their healing process is slower than the average person, and their blood sugar levels need to be monitored. Also, nerves that sense temperature, pressure and pain on the skin become damaged, so diabetics are less able to let the therapist know when the wax is too hot, or when too much pressure is being applied. This can result in burns and bruises, and general discomfort later on.  Medical consent required.

Loss of sensation: Client would not be able to detect heat/cold or pain from treatment.  Applies to diabetes, too. Medical consent is needed.

Severe varicose veins: Client often experiences tenderness and general discomfort. Waxing would exacerbate this. Also, in many severe cases, the vein being so close to the surface could rupture and cause internal bleeding. Must have medical consent.

Fever (all types): is usually symptomatic of an underlying issue/something else going on in your body. Seek medical attention. You may only wax once your fever has broken, and the cause of it was not serious/another contraindication.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS: CONTAGIOUS! Includes:

Impetigo: reddening of skin, but soon become pus-filled blisters. Highly contagious, waxing would cause cross infection.  Avoid waxing until treated by medical professional.

Stye: inflammation of eyelid, often-upper lid. It is an infection of the sebaceous gland of the eyelid. Scratching or rubbing infected area could cause infection to spread. Avoid waxing until treated and healed.

Boil/Furuncles: Infection of a hair follicle caused by staphylococci bacteria. Acute inflammation with pus formation.  Cross infection risk. 

VIRAL INFECTIONS

Herpes Simplex (Cold sore): Highly contagious. Cross infection risk. A temporary infection. Avoid waxing in this area. So no upper lip waxes.

Conjunctivitis: inflammation of the conjunctiva of the eye. Itchy and sore. Highly contagious. Cross infection risk.

Warts: Firm lesion with a rough horny surface. Medical consent required if open and weeping. Cross infection risk. If closed and not weeping, immediate areas should be avoided. Can be covered with vaseline, and waxed around

Shingles: painful inflammation of nerve ganglia. Caused by the chicken pox virus. Often causes a skin eruption of erythema, vesicles and papules. Therefore, there is a risk of cross-infection and may leave scar tissue. 

FUNGAL INFECTIONS:

Ringworm: Cross infection.  

Scabies: Caused by infestation with the parasitic “Itch mite”. Highly contagious.

Lice: Infestation of the hair and clothes. Contagious as they can easily be spread by close contact. Lice causes an intense irritation and one may have possible scratch marks and rash, sensitizing the skin, making it a contraindication to waxing. Medical consent is required due to possibility of cross infection and contamination.

Bruising, cuts and abrasions: A temporary disorder. It could be painful for the client and disrupt natural healing process. If open/fresh/weeping, it would be a risk for cross-infection as well as skin damage, because skin could be pulled/torn further.  Depending on severity, cuts and abrasions could be covered with vaseline and worked around.

Allergies to ingredients: If you have known allergies to the ingredients in a specific brand/variant of wax, let your salon/therapist know before-hand, and ask if there are any alternative products available. If not, avoid waxing for the time being, or until you find a product you don't have a negative reaction to. Sensitive and reactive skins should also be a aware of this. Medical consent may be required. Test patch is necessary.

Recent haemorrhage: Waxing would stimulate the skin and could cause more problems. Medical consent required

SKIN DISORDERS:

Psoriasis: Autoimmune disease where the skin cells are mistaken for pathogens, or are seen as such. Skin is thick, red and  flaky,  covered in silvery scales. It can become infected, therefore, if it is open or weeping - no treatment can be carried out as there is a risk of cross infection. It may be a temporary condition.

Eczema (Atopic dermatitis): It is a chronic disorder and varies greatly from one person to another. Certain products may irritate condition. Scaly, itchy rashes are most common. Avoid waxing if open and weeping and/or infected as it could cause cross infection, although this condition is not contagious. Medical consent required, to be safe.

Raised and hairy moles: Only a contraindication if inflamed, swollen, weeping  or open as cross infection could occur . Medical consent needed. Otherwise it could be covered with petroleum jelly and waxed around.

Medication and Vitamin A treatments: Medical consent is required for treatment of the skin via oral and/or topical medication e.g. Roaccutane for acne treatment, as well as Retin A and Accutane. These treatments may thin and sensitize the skin, and waxing could tear and/or break the skin, causing bleeding and scarring. Even if you are not on a medical vitamin A treatment, but use products containing vitamin A, note it on your client card, and mention this to your therapist. The specific product's name would help, too.

Sunbed, sunburns, sauna, steam treatments and/or heat rash: Not specifically a contraindication to the treatment, but it is advisable that you wait at least 48 hours after heat treatments such as sauna/steam room and 4 days after a sunbed session or a lot of sun exposure, as it would be over-stimulation for the skin, and could sensitize the skin. As for sunburn and heat rash, waxing can only be performed on the affected areas once the skin has healed or condition has subsided, as it can be very painful, and can do more harm than good, for example, skin could be pulled/lifted.

Self tan: Self-tan contains dihydroxyacetone (DHA) which reacts with keratin in the skin and "stains" the skin. Waxing can cause self-tan to look patchy and streaky as it often removes the top (dead) layer of skin cells.

Fragile, crepey skin: Can be done with the right amount of support, but not advisable, as skin may tear easily.

Menstruation: Not a contraindication as such, but a woman’s pain threshold is at its lowest immediately before and during her period. Also, the hormones which stimulate hair regrowth are most active during this period.  It is up to the individual at this time. Bikini waxes are strictly prohibited during menstrual period due to hygiene reasons.

I didn't cover all the contraindications as some of them are self-explanatory, but you're welcome to ask me if you're unsure of anything.

Miss B