#BeautyTipTuesday: Skip the Steam

image source: cygstarz.hubpages.com

Along with many others, I thought steaming was great for skin. Turns out, not so much.

The reasons I studied about why steaming was good for skin made a lot of sense to me at the time: softens surface debri making it easier to remove, opens pores for better product penetration, prepares the skin for the next step of a facial routine and is essential for products that are activated by heat and moisture. Sigh. Firstly, pores aren't doors: you can't open and close them as you wish with hot or cold water. Secondly, a good water-soluble cleanser can remove surface debri just fine. Product penetration is another post all on it's own. The only products that are activated by heat and/or moisture, that I can think of right now anyway, are some enzyme exfoliants and perhaps a mask. And I can think of less harsh ways to get both heat and moisture. Wet fingertips, anyone?

Steam is irritating to the skin, and can cause or worsen redness and result in inflammation. The heat can cause major discomfort, not to mention burns if used incorrectly. It can also cause broken capillaries that will appear similar to Telangiectasia (dilated blood vessels close to the surface of the skin).

Telangiectasia. Image source: doctorv.ca

 I've never seen telangiectasia this pronounced (or on the top of the nose area) on a client. It's more commonly found at the sides of the nose: supra alar crease, nostril and alarfacial groove. Image source: doctorv.ca

Steam CAN'T add moisture to your skin. You can't add moisture to your skin by soaking it in water. This breaks down the intercellular matrix which keeps skin cells bonded and functioning, creating a natural barrier. And we know that barrier function is one of the most important functions of the skin as it provides protection against moisture loss, bacteria/microbial invasion, irritation, inflammation and discomfort (among others), while supporting healing due to injury. The skin is such a wonderful organ. Steaming your face disturbs the intercellular matrix, which may result in dry skin because there is no longer protection against moisture loss.

Next time you go for a facial, give the steam a skip and ask the therapist why she uses it (out of curiosity). Yes, steam has been shown to be relaxing, but are you going for a facial for the sole purpose of relaxing? Heard of massage?

Remember: steam doesn't penetrate and cleanse your pores, and it defs doesn't add moisture.

Miss B

P.s. You know how after steaming, your face is wet? Your skin was obvs crying. Because steam is a meanie.



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My Beauty Battle: A Purge Sesh. Kinda.

I've been doing lots of research over the past few weeks and I've been having some difficulty with my findings, not because they're hard to understand, because I was disappointed. I've always had an intense desire to understand how and why things work, rather than just assuming and parrot-learning what is told to me by product trainers, managers, lecturers, learning manuals and some textbooks. This was seen as a weakness when I worked in salons/spas because product sales are important, and I refused to sell anything I didn't understand or believe in. I've made my target ONCE, and that was because there was a mistake in my contract regarding the formula/amount of what said target was. I've never earned commission: it's often worked out in relation to the target. However, I had a high number of return/regular clients, and I've never sold them anything I didn't believe they needed. I don't hate product houses, I obviously don't hate the cosmetics industry, but I strongly dislike purposefully misleading information regarding our skin care "needs". I also strongly dislike it when brands/product houses don't share ingredient information, which will hopefully be sorted out by the CPA over the next few years. The thing that struck me the most, though, is that some product trainers believed so wholeheartedly in the brand they represent (nothing wrong) that they hardly
(or never) question it. (Something wrong.) I once asked a trainer a question about the ingredients, order of ingredients and percentage of ingredients in a product, and she told me that it didn't matter because the product worked. In hindsight (and this is an assumption), she probably got trained just as she was training us, sharing her notes that she had taken during her training, without question. At first I felt a little stupid about it: how could I not understand how it works, how could I not understand how those ingredients do what they do, in that combination. But I soon realized, "Hey, trainers are there for a reason: to provide training and adequate information for me to be able to understand and, therefore, use products correctly and explain them correctly to the client, should they be interested to know more about it." Out of the nine brands I'm qualified to work with, 2 trainers have welcomed my questions. To give you an idea. Scary, huh?

I've known (since my first year of studies) that the cosmetics industry can be contradictory and divergent. This was especially apparent during product training. One brand saying "x is the best thing you can use for y skin type" and another brand saying "x is possibly the worst thing you can do for y skin type, it's much better to use products with c and d." I'm sure there are similar contradictions in any given industry. And I can only imagine the confusion and frustration consumers go through. It's one of the reasons why I value my education so much, and am ever grateful for it. I feel that because I have knowledge about the skin's structure and function, and some basic cosmetic science under my belt, I may ask 'better' questions in product training than someone who has no such background. Unfortunately, there are cosmetic brands that don't require one to have a skin care qualification before hiring, and then offer basic product and sales training to, well, sell their products. I obviously have a love-hate relationship with "sales". I don't have anything against the assistants in stores who don't have a skin care background. They help make product recommendations and sell us stuff. Not always the correct stuff, or the best stuff for our skin, unfortunately. Some of them love their jobs and the industry and are so passionate about their work. Many a time, I've had to ask them tons of questions about ingredients. Mostly because they look at me funny when I stand there with a list and read every box/bottle, in order to find out what the hell's in there, because it wasn't available online. So annoying. And they take turns asking if they can help me with something, until they've all had a go and then they stand behind their counters and try not to let me catch them staring. And some of them are so awesome that when they don't know or they can't answer me, they go behind their counters and whip out their training manuals in an effort to help me get more info. I appreciate and respect that a helluva lot more than having someone tell me, "Oh, don't worry, it's dermatologist tested and hypoallergenic," in response to me asking what's in it. True story.

I had a very glamourous idea about the industry, to be honest, but then I learnt that it's mostly glamourous from the exterior (the client experience), and I fell in love with it anyway because it was SO MUCH MORE than I had imagined. I became infatuated with science and chemistry (which only gave me endless nightmares, anxiety attacks and even panic attacks in matric), cosmetic science, anatomy and physiology, dermatology, and then some. I became excited about having the opportunity to make people feel better about themselves. It gave me great joy to share information with people about their skin, making it easier for them to understand and take care of. I still find this utterly exhilarating, because there's so much that is misunderstood and confusing. And there are tons of skin care"facts" with no scientific evidence to back it up. Yes, I know, there are also lots of things with opposing scientific evidence. It's mind-boggling how we pick a side in those situations.

There are things that made perfect sense to me a couple of years ago, regarding skin care and cosmetics, that I no longer feel the same about. Like steamers (which I'll get into on BeautyTipTuesday). At first I felt cheated: "How could they not teach us this? Why hasn't someone explained this to me before?" Now, I just realize that they may not have known any better, either. Then I felt bad: "I've been doing this for years. I've been recommending this and advising people this for years." After feeling bad and borderline hating myself for a couple of days... I know that at the time I did what I thought was the best possible thing, I gave the best advice I could possibly have given at that time.

I'm currently in the process of going through all my consultations and correcting any advice I no longer deem the best or most appropriate for the client's concerns/skin type/skin condition. It's hard work, exhausting even, but I know it's the right thing, and I've found it humbling. So so humbling. I have (and have had) the best clientele, and I feel very privileged and grateful to have worked with them and to have touched their skin. Not in a shady way, obvs. :-)


Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Minimize Hair in the Shower Drain

I wanted to say this is a hair tip, but "hygiene tip" would probably be more accurate.

I have long hair, so finding at least one strand of my hair in every room is highly possible. Multiply that by a hundred (or couple of hundred) and you basically have an idea of what my shower looks like after I wash my hair. Well, what my shower looked like years ago, especially during stressful times. Past tense. And although I love cleaning, I'm so not a drain-cleaning kinda gal. Sure, I'd pull my hair out of the drain, and then cut all my nails and scrub it with a nail brush because, depending how long it's been there, you get other bits of gross stuff, too: dust, soap, crap. Eeuw.

Everyone's hair will reach the end of it's life cycle and it will come out a couple of times in our lives, but I think I've got this shower-drain business waxed.

How to minimize the amount of hair in the shower drain:
(This also applies to head hair left on your body, between your butt cheeks and between your toes when you're done washing...)

1) Brush/comb your hair BEFORE you wash it. By doing this, you're brushing out the "loose" hairs that have already detached from your papilla which supplies its nourishment. These hairs may have come out while washing/rinsing your hair. And please, clean your brushes/combs regularly.

2) When you wash your hair, do so from root to tip and when you get to the ends, grab all the unattached hairs that usually hang from the ends. Bundle 'em up and put them aside in the shower, or throw them out of the shower. Whatever works for you. I usually twirl it around my index finger and put it in the corner of the shower where the door opens. Mainly so that I don't forget to take it out, which sometimes happens anyway. Sorry, Man Person.

3) Same applies for rinsing and conditioner application, even if you apply your conditioner from mid-length. As well as for that additional rinse you do at the end before getting out of the shower. I see you.

4) When you squeeze out the water from your hair before getting out or towel-drying, DO NOT wring your hair. This can cause breakage, and who wants that? Don't pull it too hard, either. Just do that "sexy hair washing" motion that people do on ads and in the movies. Go from your forehead/hairline, as if you're gathering your hair to tie a ponytail. And squeeze your hair out in sections as you move down your "ponytail". And when you get to the ends, grab the unattached hair before it falls into the shower, and ends up in the drain.

5) Check the shower floor. It's so much better picking up hairs on the floor than digging in the drain. It's possible that one or a few hairs may have escaped you, so look down for a second and pick it up.

6) So a few hairs ended up in the drain cover/screen/strainer thingy (what is that thing called?)... It's not as much as it could've been. Take it out if you have no issues. If you're squeamish, use a tissue or toilet paper. I'll admit to have using a toothpick to lift the hairs out of the drain and then either put it in the bin or flush it down the toilet.

7) Remember to remove it from the shower, or the shower mat, or wherever you decided to put it; especially if you share a home/bathroom with others.

It sounds like a lot of effort, but if takes less than a minute in total, versus being on your hands and knees scratching in the drain. Ain't nobody got the time, surn. If you weren't clearing your hair from the shower/drain before, you'll need to clean it first. Starting to twirl and bundle up your hair now is not going to clear the crap in the drain from the last year. You may even need some drain cleaner, but you should probably get advice about that from someone else. I will not be held responsible for inappropriate drain cleaning fluids ruining your pipes and water disposal system, sorry. I don't know much about this, I have a pair of gloves, a bucket and a reasonable retching reflex on most days. I kick it old school. And I love the word 'retching'. Retching. Retch retch retch. Retch for the stars. Haha. Gross. Sorry.

Do you have any tips and tricks on how to minimize the amount of hair going into the shower drain? Please feel free to share in the comments section.



Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Makeup Removal

I have to apologize about Beauty Tip Tuesday being on Wednesday. Whatthefructose. I had never scheduled a post before, and I scheduled this one and then....nothing. Urgh. Whaddupwiddat.

Today's (Yesterday's) Beauty Tip is about makeup removal.

A good, water-soluble cleanser should remove basic makeup, so why not try cleansing your face first, and if you need to, use a makeup remover on cotton pads afterwards. Obviously, if you wear lots of makeup, and waterproof products at that, you'll need a little help from a fragrance- and colourant-free makeup remover.

I haven't used makeup remover in a long time. I usually just cleanse, and if needs be I do a double cleanse, and then gently "dry" my face with a damp face cloth. I use a white, or very light cloth, for this so that I can see if there are any traces of makeup left, and then make sure it's garwn before slamming into my bed like a dead weight.

Your makeup remover shouldn't have fragrance and colouring agents, as these may likely irritate your skin, and may require additional cleansing to remove. Sounds like too much work for me, y'all. So dampen your face and then gently, but thoroughly, cleanse your skin in quick massage-like movements. Remember to get into that hairline, go right up until your ears, and up your neck (not down your neck, you guys, you work UP your neck). Yes, over your eyes, too. Your cleanser should be gentle enough to use over your eyes. I just heard one of my lecturers tell us "Do you know how many microorganisms live in your brows and lashes?" in my head. Obvs. 

By using your cleanser first (if you even need to use anything after) you minimize that horrible pulling and tugging and dragging motion you do with cotton pads and makeup removal wipes. You need to be far more gentle with your skin, kids. And guess what pulling and dragging and tugging on your skin does? It weakens the elastin fibres, and we know what that means... an increased risk of premature sagging. So be gentle when you cleanse, and be gentle when you remove any remnants of makeup with cotton pads and/or wipes. Don't use your strong hand for this one. ;-)


Miss B

Bourjois Rose Exclusif Lipgloss

Bourjois Rose Exclusif Lipgloss, R99,95 on rubybox

This. Is. My. FAVOURITE! Lip product at the moment. Lip balm is the only other thing I've been wearing on my lips since receiving this from rubybox in November, along with the Bourjois Smoky Eyes Trio in Rose Vintage and the Bourjois Khol & Contour Eyepencil in Brun Design. It's just right. Every time.

Self-adjusting products are popular, and it's totally understandable why; with different undertones, complexions, "correction" requirements and the need for minimal guesswork when purchasing makeup. While walking around in a department store one day, running out of testing space on my arms (I'm sure you're familiar with this) looking for the perfect shade of blush, I came across a self-adjusting gel formula and was blown away, as I didn't expect to find it in SA, at the time. We have access to many SUPER brands (not enough, though) but we don't often get the WHOLE collection of products. Within the next month or two, there were self-adjusting products errrwhere. I like the idea, but very few of them work to my satisfaction. I've tried a few on my hands and arms in stores that just didn't adjust to suit MY skin colour or a natural-looking shade of pink. I'm still like a kid about it, though, I get all excited when clear gels and white creams start turning into shades of a good cup of tea with milk, or into strawberry Fizzer shades. Omg, you guys, I have a serious Fizzer addiction. I'm totally going off sugar once I finish this bag of Fizzers, I swear. My body has spoken! But it tastes SO GOOD!

Jeez, can you, like, get back to the product at hand, here, Crazy.

2 3 4 7 Fizzers later.

Bourjois Rose Exclusif Lipgloss contains pigments that adjust to the pH of your lips, delivering a somewhat exclusive rose-pink shade. We could all use this and have different shades of rose-pink lips. I tried it on my cheeks, too, thinking it would be all matchy-matchy with my lips. It wasn't. Clearly differing pH levels, then.

Bourjois Rose Exclusif Lipgloss. Love the brush. It's like a nail polish brush. I want nail polish with a brush like that. 

It goes on as a clear, slightly sticky gloss, that is also self-leveling, I may add. The colour develops within seconds... and sometimes keeps developing. It doesn't say that the colour intensity is layer-dependent, but I've noticed that the more I apply, the darker/brighter it seems. I don't mind dark/bright pinks, but if you're looking for a natural, hint of pink, you either need to use very little and spread it with a clean lip brush or your finger tips, or you need to move on to something else.

I thought I could outsmart this product by "lining" my lips with it a few minutes before filling in it to create a two-tone effect. It looked like those really old-school sitcoms and music videos where they lined their lips and then added clear gloss. Just no.  Minutes later, I applied it again, going over the entire area of my lips. It was SO COOL. Two-toned lips with minimal thought or effort. Until minutes later, it all developed into a uniform colour. Short-lived genius. I guess you could also look at that as foolproof. Right?

It has vitamins C and E, which I love, but it certainly doesn't provide 8 hour moisture as it says it does. It's not a drying gloss at all, as I've come to expect of sticky glosses, but I didn't find it particularly moisturizing. Also, the glossiness will wear off, especially if you're going to eat, drink, talk a lot or kiss someone. The colour, however, outlives the gloss. So even hours after your pout is no longer bouncing the light into the eyes of a cute person, it will still look like you just ate a  pink bompie. still look nicely tinted/stained, and more natural. Two thumbs up for colour longevity.

I've only tried this over a lipstick once, and I didn't particularly love the result, so I'll keep using this clean, or over lip balm. You really don't need anything else with this lip product, and I'll be more than happy to purchase this with my own paper cash money once I finish this one. It's now a staple. Also, pretty convenient if you're going out and want to use a clutch or a small bag with minimal space. You know, the ones that can only carry your phone, money and a couple of tissues. Just halve the amount of tissues, and add your Bourjois Rose Exclusif. :-D


Miss B

#BeautyTipTuesday: Nail care

Helloooooooo!

Happy New Year! :-)

I'm so excited about this year. I'm not going to go all "this is my year" on you, don't worry, I'm just super excited. About the new year. Every year. I ate too many Fizzers in the last week. Including today.

"2014 is gonna be my year!!" - people who's year was supposed to be 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010...
— Travon Free (@Travon) January 1, 2014

Haha.

Anyway...

Welcome to Beauty Tip Tuesday, my new feature, where I get to share some more beauty tips. You're welcome to share your beauty issues and struggles via email or leave a comment below, and I'll try my best to give you some simple tips to make life that little bit easier. :-)

Today's tip is about nails. Well, more specifically, fingers.

We all know that removing our nail polish/finish product, especially if you have gel nails or artificial tips that require soaking off in acetone, can leave the skin around our nails (and our fingertips) dry and sensitive. So next time you remove your nail polish, coat your cuticles and the skin around your nail with vaseline, body butter, cuticle oil, olive oil, lip balm, conditioner or my latest household obsession, coconut oil. Sometimes I'm very impatient when it comes to removing nail polish so I just apply one of the aforementioned mediums to both my hands, as I would hand cream. So because your hands/fingers are wonderfully coated, you don't lose as much moisture from your skin and cuticles. Easy, right?

Try it and let me know how it goes.

Miss B