Waxing 101.3: Before, During and After

This is all about what you are resposible for pre- and post-waxing. Yes, this is important.  I'll also touch on what can happen during a waxing treatment, and how to deal with it.

Before:

1. Exfoliate in upward, circular motion two days before your waxing appointment. This is a great way to lift the hairs, especially those that lie flat against the skin. This is also great for those hairs that are ingrown just beneath the skin. Often there are hairs that grow parallel to (but underneath) the skin, so you can see the hair, but can't really "feel"/touch it. Exfoliation removes the dead, top layer of skin to expose the underlying in-growns.*

2. If you shower/bath before your waxing appointment, make sure the water is not HOT. You can have a warm shower or bath, but not hot. Also make sure that there'll be 20-30 minutes between your shower/bath and your appointment, so that your body temperature can normalize. Your skin must be at normal temperature when the wax is applied to avoid discomfort, and a negative, possibly severe reaction. Also, don't bother applying body lotion to the area that's going to be waxed. If it's your underarms, skip the roll-on/deodorant/antiperspirant. It's going to be removed anyway.

3. If your appointment is for early morning, or you plan on having a nap before the time, make sure that you allow at least 20 minutes after waking before your appointment. While you're asleep, your body processes continue, and often your skin "puffs up", which is why you need to allow time for it to "settle" back to normal before your treatment, to allow for the best hair removal results, especially regarding the shorter hairs.

4. If you frequent saunas/steam rooms/sunbeds/tan-cans or enjoy soaking up the sun (which I don't encourage) you have to wait about 4 days prior to waxing. I explained this in Waxing 101.1.

5. Self-tan. Waxing could make your self tan look patchy and streaky, so it is best to apply self-tan a couple of days after waxing. I'd advise 3-4 days after, so that you can exfoliate before applying it.

6. Avoid a booze-filled night out the day before your appointment. And avoid the morning coffee while you're at it. Caffeine and alcohol are stimulants and raises the acidity level in your body, making skin more sensitive, and more prone to redness, inflammation and irritation. Alcohol also thins the blood, which is not ideal for clotting, especially in cases of blood spots/ pinprick bleeds. Blood spots or pinprick bleeding is caused by blood rising up the hair follicle when the hair is pulled/removed from the root. The root of the hair is attached to a dermal papilla which supplies the hair with oxygen and nutrients via the blood. So...Have a cup of tea, or water, instead.

7. Take painkillers 30 minutes before your treatment, if you so wish. It is really not necessary, but it could help. You could take medication containing ibuprofen or paracetamol. Please avoid Aspirin/Disprin as they have antiplatelet effects, which could inhibit blood clotting. See point 6. 

8. Don't "ice numb" the area to be waxed, it will make it more painful, by tightening/contracting your pores.

During:

1. Relax. I know for some people it's hard to do, especially during a bikini wax, but it will hurt a lot less if you just get over it..

2. You may have pinprick bleeds, or blood spots. This is normal. It doesn't necessarily indicate bad technique. I've explained why/how this happens above in point 6 under "Before", as well as in Waxing 101.1

3. If you feel any discomfort at all, such as burning and tingling, you need to tell the therapist immediately. IMMEDIATELY. You could be having a reaction that may not be visible yet, or he/she may have burned you accidentally, or pulled/lifted skin. You need to speak up as soon as it happens/you feel it, so that the therapist can take the necessary steps. If something unfortunate has happened, the therapist should advise you on what you can do at home to take care of the problem, or avoid further problems.

4. You may battle with Urticaria (aka Hives). Characterized by red, raised, itchy welts on the skin's surface, often caused by an allergic reaction, but there are non-allergic causes. I'm not sure where I fall under here, but I suffer from this. And although it would probably be best to not wax at all, I hate shaving (a lot!) and I can't afford regular IPL. Yet, anyway. It is FANTASTIC, by the way. So...I'll take it. Mine clears within a day or two (acute case), but it may last longer than 6 weeks if it's chronic. I hope it never escalates to that. There's not much you can do, but take an antihistamine (preferably before waxing), and follow all the after-care/home-care advice.
Here are few pics of my legs after waxing:

This is 5-10 minutes after waxing. You can clearly see that the bumps are raised. Unfortunately you can't see how red it is. Camera-flash and the fact that I took these myself. Sigh.

This is about 45 minutes after waxing, and you can see that it's starting to settle. The bumps are not as raised and pronounced, although still very visible.

About an hour and a half later. Bumps are starting to disappear, even if very slowly and in patches. Sigh

It is not extremely painful, but it tingles, can be itchy, and is very hot to the touch.

After:

1. Do not wear tight-fitted clothing after your wax. This will irritate your skin, especially certain synthetic materials. Wear light/loose clothing, preferably cotton, but any loose clothing will do. This includes underwear when waxing your bikini area. Don't wear your cute, tight, lace panties for 24 hours. Tight underwear should be avoided generally, but since very few of us can resist, it is important to follow point 7 (below), and perhaps sleep commando. Tight underwear also encourages ingrown hairs* by placing pressure (however slight) on the skin prohibiting the hairs from surfacing as they usually would.

2. Do not do heavy/high-impact/cardio exercises 24 hours after waxing. Fun times, right? When you exercise, your circulation is increased, resulting in heat and perspiration. Because your pores will still be dilated/open, your skin will still be sensitive to heat, and could become more sensitivite, and possibly infected.

3. No hot showers and baths for 24 hours after waxing. For the same reasons as point 2. You may have warm showers/baths, but not hot, you can cause extreme discomfort to your skin (and yourself)

4. No swimming. No beach. No pool. Your pores are dilated, both salt and chlorine will irritate your skin. You could break out in defence, and experience tingling and/or burning on the waxed area. Wait about 2 days.

Points 3 and 4 also apply to steam rooms, saunas, jacuzzis, and all other heat/water activities. I know, "Why don't you just lock me up in a cold storage unit?!" Because this will also be uncomfortable and cause irritation to your skin. It is painful to get cold after waxing. Arrector/Erector pili muscles are small muscles attached to the hair follicle, all over your body, and contract when you are cold causing your hairs to stand-up and give you "goosebumps". Whenever I wax my legs, I have to walk around in shorts and skirts for 24-48 hours because my skin is so sensitive, and I can tell you that it f****** hurts when I get cold. And obviously I got cold, because I was probably walking around in the smallest shorts/skirt (if anything) ever, and I often have to go outside at night, to check that my pup empties her bladder before bed. Yeah, boohoo for me, right?!

5. No sun exposure for at least 24 hours. Your skin will be sensitized by waxing, and prone to hyper-pigmentation during this time. Apply a sunscreen, regularly. And by "regularly", I mean EVERY DAY.

6. Also, no heavily scented and coloured body lotions. Fragranced products may irritate your skin. Coloured body lotions may cause temporary discolouration of your skin, depending on your skin and sensitivity. I'd advise Bio Oil, but my skin is especially sensitive after waxing, and even Bio Oil gives me that tingling/burning sensation on my legs. A baby lotion, or aqueous cream should be fine, though. If you've got a soothing lotion or gel with ingredients such as Aloe Vera, it should be perfect. Do a little test patch on the area and wait 20 minutes to make sure you won't react before applying it all over. If you're unsure, it's okay to not apply anything (the therapist should have applied an after wax lotion, anyway), and continue as you normally would the next day. I do it all the time. Update: You can also use an after-sun product, be it a milk, gel or lotion. After-sun products are usually very light in texture and very absorbent. They also contain skin-soothing and -calming ingredients.

7. No exfoliation for 3 days after waxing: may irritate your skin. Exfoliation is very important. You have to exfoliate every 2-3 days after the initial one, 3 days after waxing. *

8. No sexual activity for 24 hours. For reals. I'm not joking. While your pores are dilated (yawn), your skin is prone to irritation by (extreme) temperature changes in/on your body, friction, and bacterial infection. So, no, not even oral sex is okay during this time. Just avoid it.  Unless, of course, you can have sex without your body temperature changing and without friction. And if you can do this, congratulations. *pops champagne*

9. When doing facial waxes, avoid makeup application on the area for at least 24 hours. If you absolutely have to, and there's no other way, apply an antiseptic cream first, and then your makeup.

10. Deodorant and antiperspirant products should be avoided for 12 hours after waxing underarms, to prevent irritation. If you have to use something because you're going out or to an event, etc, use an alcohol free product, with minimal fragrance. I use Nivea Pure (I think) and I have had no negative (or any) reactions. Update: I've also not had any negative reaction from using Dove's Invisible Dry Anti-White Marks roll-on.

11. If you've had a bikini wax and make use of any kind of vaginal sprays/products, avoid it for at least 24 hours to prevent potential irritation. If you're on medical treatment and have to use it daily, best you consult with your medical professional as well as your therapist, and find a suitable solution.


*Ingrown hairs may initially look like a fine rash, or pimples (papule). You may or may not be able to see the hair in the pimple. If the hair is not released, the follicle may become infected and pus-filled.
During waxing, dead, keratinized skin cells are removed from the skin's surface along with the hair. As the hairs are growing back, new skin cells are keratinizing (ongoing process). By the time that the new hairs are ready to appear on the surface, the "new" skin cells are fully keratinized and may cover the follicle opening on the skin's surface. Because re-growth hairs are much finer and softer after waxing, it is not strong enough to push through the keratinized cells that now cover the follicle opening, and the hairs then grow parallel to the the skin's surface, underneath the keratinized cells, or they make a U-turn and grow down towards the root. They may also hit the side wall of the follicle. This is why exfoliation is important between waxing treatments.

I hope this helps you. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to add them in the comments section below.

In waxing 101.4, I'll talk about hair re-growth after waxing, and perhaps go into different styles of bikini waxing. :-)

Miss B

This is a very popular post, please read the post and the comments before you comment asking a question that has already been asked and answered. I'm not always able to

respond immediately, and the info, questions and responses already available could save you some time and waiting. As always, your questions and comments are always welcome.

Waxing 101.2: Types of Wax

pic from sweetmadamblue.wordpress.com

Now that you understand the consultation and contraindications, let's get to the types of wax available.

Strip/cool/cold wax: (all the same thing)
Solid but sticky when cold. Usually comes in tins.
Melting point and working temperature of 43°C. *
It's applied thinly in direction of hair growth (e.g. applied down the leg), and removed, with a strip, against the hair growth. So the strip is removed/"pulled" up the leg.

Strip wax. Image from skin2nvdebi.com

This method is great for areas such as the legs, arms, back, chest (in most cases).
Many therapists prefer to use strip wax on the face, especially for upper lip and eyebrow waxes. I, personally, do not. It is not advisable to reapply strip wax on the same area more than once, and often it is necessary, especially with more stubborn facial hairs. This type of wax is much better for finer/thin hairs. Some therapists are really great with strip wax, no matter what the treatment area is, but I've seen and experienced too many things go wrong with this method. I've had skin burnt and ripped on my eye area (upper eyelids), upper lip, underarms and bikini. YES, bikini! Even legs, but that was at college, so it's kind of forgivable, as that is where most of us made most of our mistakes, I hope!

Hot wax:

Solid when cold.May come in the form of pellets and/or slabs/blocks. Melting point and working temperature is about 68°C *
Requires thick application in opposite direction to hair growth. So it is applied against the hair. So if your hair is growing down, the wax will be applied upwards, against the growth. Smaller patches are advisable.
For those who aren't familiar with hot wax, it looks like smooth cake batter (in prettier colours) and is applied to the treatment area. It is then left for a couple of seconds, to "set" (become firmer/harder, but not rock hard, as then it would crack on removal. This is a sign of heat damaged wax.) and then removed/pulled off. No strips required.

Hot wax when melted. Image from allwomenstalk.com

This is great for underarm, face (eye, upper lip, chin) and bikini. I've had minimal to no problems with this method, especially on the face. My main problem/concern with this method is heat destruction and poor quality wax, which is why you need to go to a professional place. You have every right to ask questions.

Film wax:

Best of both. It has the lowest working temperature* and is applied like strip wax in direction of hair growth, and removed against the hair growth. It has the consistency of hot wax, but is not applied as thickly, and can be removed by either strip, or after it has set, as with hot wax. Can be used on most areas. It's very nice for face and the top part of your bikini area (for those who remove most hair to everything.) It is also great for people with more sensitive skin, especially to heat. Film wax is also not as popular as it should be, so know that not every salon will have/use it.

One of the best waxing brands around. Depileve never disappoints. depileve.com

<Miss B

*Melting and working temperatures may differ from brand to brand. Depileve, for example, have lower working temperatures for their wax products. Their film wax has a working temperature of 39°C.

Waxing 101.1: Consultation & Contraindications

Image from  conflictedfeminist.blogspot.com

Waxing is a popular, convenient, and somewhat economical option for de-fuzzing and many people do it...without knowing much about it.

The first thing that comes to mind for many is pain. One's pain threshold is higher later in the day, so if it's your first time, and you're scared, make your appointment for 3PM or later. You could also take painkillers about an hour before your appointment. You really don't need the prescription medication, unless Myprodol requires a prescription? I don't remember, haven't taken it in YEARS! Panado, Grandpa, Ponstel and Neurofen should be okay. The first time is the worst, I promise. Unless something bad (burns, skin pulling/ripping, bad reaction) happens after that. I've had all of the above, and I don't wish it upon ANYONE.

Making the appointment:

PLEASE go to a qualified professional therapist/salon for this service. Especially if it is your first time. If not, I have no problems with student salons (where health and skin care professionals in-the-making get some experience and mainly "practise" for their exams, etc) but don't expect a five star, perfect waxing session in record time. They're still learning, and need the practise and hours, so they may be a bit slow, and sometimes make mistakes. They need to, that's how/where they learn. Also know that you have the right to ask to see a therapists qualification. If the salon/therapist can't provide it, then you are NOT obligated to make use of the salon's/therapist's services.

If it is not possible to go in before the time for a consultation to discuss the procedure and your concerns, ask for 15 minutes extra when booking your appointment, to do this. In this time, make sure you understand everything BEFORE the treatment starts. If you need the therapist to tell you step by step, for reassurance, ask him/her to do so. It's your right. 

If your salon of choice doesn't require you to fill out a consultation/indemnity form before ANY treatment, walk out immediately. Just go. These forms are highly important and protect you and the salon/spa/therapist. Also, it contains emergency information in case something unforeseen happens., accidents which require medical attention and so on. It also communicates your medical history and contraindications which prohibits you from going through with the treatment. I cannot stress this enough.

Here is an example of a waxing specific client consultation card:

www.itecworld.co.uk

Contraindications explained:

Haemophilia: Blood disorder where one's body can't control blood coagulation and clotting. When waxed, the hair is pulled out from the root. The root is attached to a dermal papilla, which supplies the hair with nourishment and oxygen via the blood. That's why some people get "blood spots" after waxing, as the blood is "rising up" the follicle when the hair is yanked from it. People with haemophilia may not stop bleeding (in this case) without medical help. Also, haemophiliacs tend to bruise very easily. Waxing is not ideal. Medical consent needed.

Medical Oedema: excessive accumulation of fluid in cells/tissues/cavities. This is usually caused by an underlying issue. Strictly medical. Waxing may cause discomfort, and/or exacerbate the condition. Medical consent needed. Also applies to general swelling and undiagnosed lumps and bumps.

Osteoporosis: Also medical. Bones are porous, brittle and fragile. This affects all structures above it. Pressure is often applied in waxing as "support" when removing the wax, also afterwards to soothe the skin. This may cause discomfort. Medical consent is essential.

Recent operations and/or scar tissue: Clients should wait at least 6 months before a treatment on the area (2 years for major operations). Waxing could interfere with the natural healing process, be very uncomfortable and painful.  Also applies to fractures, sprains, broken bones. Medical consent needed, especially since healing process times may differ from person to person, and you may need longer than 6 months.

Diabetes: Diabetics often have defective circulation, so their healing process is slower than the average person, and their blood sugar levels need to be monitored. Also, nerves that sense temperature, pressure and pain on the skin become damaged, so diabetics are less able to let the therapist know when the wax is too hot, or when too much pressure is being applied. This can result in burns and bruises, and general discomfort later on.  Medical consent required.

Loss of sensation: Client would not be able to detect heat/cold or pain from treatment.  Applies to diabetes, too. Medical consent is needed.

Severe varicose veins: Client often experiences tenderness and general discomfort. Waxing would exacerbate this. Also, in many severe cases, the vein being so close to the surface could rupture and cause internal bleeding. Must have medical consent.

Fever (all types): is usually symptomatic of an underlying issue/something else going on in your body. Seek medical attention. You may only wax once your fever has broken, and the cause of it was not serious/another contraindication.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS: CONTAGIOUS! Includes:

Impetigo: reddening of skin, but soon become pus-filled blisters. Highly contagious, waxing would cause cross infection.  Avoid waxing until treated by medical professional.

Stye: inflammation of eyelid, often-upper lid. It is an infection of the sebaceous gland of the eyelid. Scratching or rubbing infected area could cause infection to spread. Avoid waxing until treated and healed.

Boil/Furuncles: Infection of a hair follicle caused by staphylococci bacteria. Acute inflammation with pus formation.  Cross infection risk. 

VIRAL INFECTIONS

Herpes Simplex (Cold sore): Highly contagious. Cross infection risk. A temporary infection. Avoid waxing in this area. So no upper lip waxes.

Conjunctivitis: inflammation of the conjunctiva of the eye. Itchy and sore. Highly contagious. Cross infection risk.

Warts: Firm lesion with a rough horny surface. Medical consent required if open and weeping. Cross infection risk. If closed and not weeping, immediate areas should be avoided. Can be covered with vaseline, and waxed around

Shingles: painful inflammation of nerve ganglia. Caused by the chicken pox virus. Often causes a skin eruption of erythema, vesicles and papules. Therefore, there is a risk of cross-infection and may leave scar tissue. 

FUNGAL INFECTIONS:

Ringworm: Cross infection.  

Scabies: Caused by infestation with the parasitic “Itch mite”. Highly contagious.

Lice: Infestation of the hair and clothes. Contagious as they can easily be spread by close contact. Lice causes an intense irritation and one may have possible scratch marks and rash, sensitizing the skin, making it a contraindication to waxing. Medical consent is required due to possibility of cross infection and contamination.

Bruising, cuts and abrasions: A temporary disorder. It could be painful for the client and disrupt natural healing process. If open/fresh/weeping, it would be a risk for cross-infection as well as skin damage, because skin could be pulled/torn further.  Depending on severity, cuts and abrasions could be covered with vaseline and worked around.

Allergies to ingredients: If you have known allergies to the ingredients in a specific brand/variant of wax, let your salon/therapist know before-hand, and ask if there are any alternative products available. If not, avoid waxing for the time being, or until you find a product you don't have a negative reaction to. Sensitive and reactive skins should also be a aware of this. Medical consent may be required. Test patch is necessary.

Recent haemorrhage: Waxing would stimulate the skin and could cause more problems. Medical consent required

SKIN DISORDERS:

Psoriasis: Autoimmune disease where the skin cells are mistaken for pathogens, or are seen as such. Skin is thick, red and  flaky,  covered in silvery scales. It can become infected, therefore, if it is open or weeping - no treatment can be carried out as there is a risk of cross infection. It may be a temporary condition.

Eczema (Atopic dermatitis): It is a chronic disorder and varies greatly from one person to another. Certain products may irritate condition. Scaly, itchy rashes are most common. Avoid waxing if open and weeping and/or infected as it could cause cross infection, although this condition is not contagious. Medical consent required, to be safe.

Raised and hairy moles: Only a contraindication if inflamed, swollen, weeping  or open as cross infection could occur . Medical consent needed. Otherwise it could be covered with petroleum jelly and waxed around.

Medication and Vitamin A treatments: Medical consent is required for treatment of the skin via oral and/or topical medication e.g. Roaccutane for acne treatment, as well as Retin A and Accutane. These treatments may thin and sensitize the skin, and waxing could tear and/or break the skin, causing bleeding and scarring. Even if you are not on a medical vitamin A treatment, but use products containing vitamin A, note it on your client card, and mention this to your therapist. The specific product's name would help, too.

Sunbed, sunburns, sauna, steam treatments and/or heat rash: Not specifically a contraindication to the treatment, but it is advisable that you wait at least 48 hours after heat treatments such as sauna/steam room and 4 days after a sunbed session or a lot of sun exposure, as it would be over-stimulation for the skin, and could sensitize the skin. As for sunburn and heat rash, waxing can only be performed on the affected areas once the skin has healed or condition has subsided, as it can be very painful, and can do more harm than good, for example, skin could be pulled/lifted.

Self tan: Self-tan contains dihydroxyacetone (DHA) which reacts with keratin in the skin and "stains" the skin. Waxing can cause self-tan to look patchy and streaky as it often removes the top (dead) layer of skin cells.

Fragile, crepey skin: Can be done with the right amount of support, but not advisable, as skin may tear easily.

Menstruation: Not a contraindication as such, but a woman’s pain threshold is at its lowest immediately before and during her period. Also, the hormones which stimulate hair regrowth are most active during this period.  It is up to the individual at this time. Bikini waxes are strictly prohibited during menstrual period due to hygiene reasons.

I didn't cover all the contraindications as some of them are self-explanatory, but you're welcome to ask me if you're unsure of anything.

Miss B

Skin Care Glossary

Not sure what all that jargon is about under the ingredients label at the back of your (cosmetic) product packaging?

Find out here.

Thank you, Allure.com.

Miss B

Before You Buy That Product...

With so many skin care brands available, it can be slightly overwhelming trying to find THE ONE just for you. Not everyone is going to lose their minds with excitement at the thought of getting great products. But I do! I went through almost every product available at Clicks (I'm convinced) in the space of 2 years, and I was disappointed over and over and over and over again. But I'm older and wiser now. Even if only slightly. Hmmm.

I would recommend professional skin care products that one can only purchase from trained professionals at salons, spas, etc over something you can just get at PnP or Clicks, that you think is what you need. Not only because I am a skin care therapist, but also because before I was a trained professional, I was lost and desperate for clear, healthy skin. I suffered from acne. And couldn't afford to go to a dermatologist and buy high-end cosmeceuticals or whatever. Yes, I called it whatever...back then...when I was inexperienced. Problem is, there's no-one at your local Clicks, PnP, etc to analyse your skin and guide you from there. You know you have oily skin, so why wouldn't Product X (available at your local PnP), which is for oily skin types, work for you? Because Product X, perhaps, did not take into consideration your skin condition. You could have oily but dehydrated skin, or oily but sensitive skin. What then? What if Product X manufacturers did not take that into consideration? Use it anyway and hope for the best? Hope that it doesn't worsen your dehydration or sensitivity? Waste of time and money. Having said that, I also understand that not everyone can afford most professional products. Note that not all are as expensive as you may assume. Either way, you HAVE TO know what you're getting into. More importantly, KNOW your skin and know what you want for your skin. A skincare consultant or therapist can help with this.

If you're lucky enough to go for regular facials, click here for advice about taking advantage and making the best of your facial before you purchase products.

For everyone else, that may not be so lucky... I feel your pain.


Many salons/spas offer free skin analyses and/or consultation, so enquire at one. You've got nothing to lose. An independent consultant, however, may charge a fee...but there'll be less (if any) pressure to book a facial and/or buy products from him/her, as he/she may not offer physical treatments and retail products.

Once your skin analysis is complete, you should know your skin type, skin condition and what your skin needs, at least.

He/She will then (most probably) recommend an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He/She should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. If you're still unsure after he/she has explained, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the consultant suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for YOU to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the consultant isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort. Also, may products are very similar, so best to have the RIGHT one.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your consultant know and ask if he/she can recommend something else within your budget. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your consultant know that you already have xyz products (that may have done nothing for you) and ask if you're using them correctly. If possible, take your current products along to your consultation. That way, the consultant can see what you've got and should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime or correct it. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, but they may be in conflict with each other and therefore, you're not getting (good) results. Remember sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT! It should always be included. Yes, YOU HAVE TO!

You should (at least) know this before you purchase:

1. Why THAT product (or those products).
2. When to use the product
3. How often to use it e.g. morning and night, weekly, 2x weekly, etc
4. How to use/apply/remove it
5. When it expires, or how to know when it expires. Most packaging should tell you when, after opening, it should be chucked away.

Products "not working"?
Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the consultant and let him/her know. If you've had an obvious reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that the consultant can see the reaction and determine the cause. Take your products with you, so he/she can check it, to make sure it's not expired, and that it doesn't look/smell funny. If the problem is with the actual product you have, return it to the place of purchase. They should replace your products or refund you.

The consultant should be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin. You may have to get additional, milder,  products to help with this. Damage control.

If your product is not the cause and the consultant is not sure, and had never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist.

If the consultant was unable to solve the problem, and hasn't followed up within a week since you informed him/her about your reaction, find a new one. Email me. Good consultants will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your consultant as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction.

Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B

Facial anytime soon?

Picture: www.lemigroup.com

If you're fortunate enough to be able to go for regular facials, or even if you receive a gift card for a facial, take advantage of this time to ASK questions about your skin/concerns. Before you book your facial, call the salon/spa, and summarize your concerns and ask what facial treatment the skincare therapist would suggest FOR YOUR particular skincare concerns. Sometimes, the therapist (especially a great one) will need more information and suggest you make the appointment and discuss your concerns in person, when he/she can have a look at your skin, and better understand. Also, know that what you think is a problem may not be, and vice versa. For example, you may think your main problem is fine lines/potential wrinkles/ageing. This could, in fact, be as a result of skin dehydration or dryness, and once you solve the dryness/dehydration, your fine lines may not be as apparent. Very loose example.

Firstly, your therapist should use a new/unused pair of facial sponges on your face. He/She should open it in front of you. If the salon/spa uses gloves, the gloves should be clean and dry. If it's not, it's likely you'll be able to smell that it isn't. I hope this never happens to you. Cringe. Don't be afraid to ask if the implements being used on you are clean. It is your right. I won't go into detail about sequence/method/procedure as each skincare brand have their own (sometimes very unique) way of doing things, which will be different from the next. Every facial, however, should include a skin analysis, after cleansing or exfoliation. It's more likely to be just after cleansing, so that the therapist can choose the right exfoliation method/product for you. Your eyes should be closed or covered and there'll be a bright light above your face. There'll also be a lot of facial touching, poking and pinching. Not nearly as bad as I'm making it sound. :-) During this time, your therapist should also be asking you a lot of questions about your skin: what you currently use, your diet, lifestyle questions, experiences with products, medication (even if you have filled this out on the consultation/indemnity form). It is important to give the therapist as much information as possible. Everything is important. If you're on some form of contraception, tell him/her. Even "small" things like vitamins and supplements. If you know the names/brands of the supplements and other medications, write them down on your consultation card before your treatment. If there isn't an allocated space for it, write it anywhere (even on the back) of the form. Vitamin A, retinoids, AHA  treatments, and/or peels are especially important, along with ANY allergies!

This is an elaborate example of a client card. Every spa/salon should have one. It won't always be this elaborate, but you should still include as much info as possible.

And the consultant/therapist will fill in the following during your skin analysis:

And you're more than welcome to ask her about it, or to explain it to you. Note: Not all spas/salons have the same consultation cards. This is just an example.

Throughout your facial, the therapist should be telling you about what she is putting on your face, and how it'll benefit your skin. If you go for regular facials, or are on a specific treatment plan, it's likely that the therapist may only do this once, as it will be the same the next time. And the next and the next. This doesn't mean you shouldn't ask if you don't remember, or are unsure. If you "just want to relax" and enjoy your facial with minimal talking and questions from your therapist, let him/her know before the treatment starts. So, when he/she takes you to the treatment room, let her know then, or just before he/she starts. Please, understand that sometimes, the therapist NEEDS to ask/tell you important things during the treatment. He/She won't, however, talk during a facial massage. He/She may just check if the pressure is okay, but that's it.

You should speak up, should you experience any of the following at any point:

• Tingling
• Burning
• Itching
• Intense pulling (unless you're having a firming/decreasing treatment. Many clay masks tend to feel like they're "pulling" a little.) Either way, if it's uncomfortable, let the therapist know.
• Too much pressure during massage. (Everyone is different.Some people prefer lighter/harder massage pressure on their decolletage and face.)

If you're claustrophobic, please indicate this at the beginning of the treatment, so that the therapist knows to avoid certain methods and products.

At the end of the treatment (if it wasn't done throughout/during the treatment), the therapist will recommend (retail) products for home use. It will most probably be an entire range of products that he/she thinks you need to improve/maintain your skin health or condition. He or she should provide you with information about it: when and how much to use, for how long, etc. If you're not sure about how the products can benefit you, ASK. Your therapist should be able to explain EVERYTHING to you. If you're still unsure, ask again and be specific. If you're using an eye cream, and the therapist suggests you use an eye gel instead, or in conjunction with your eye cream, ask her why she thinks it's better for you to use an eye gel. If you're not comfortable with her explanations or answers, ask her to write down her recommendations, and do some research. If the therapist isn't sure about something and admits this to you, and then makes an effort to ask another therapist, the manager, or checks the product packaging, or her training manual, be grateful. Don't instantly judge him/her, and assume he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Therapists can easily make mistakes and not rectify them because they're embarrassed or afraid of judgement, so appreciate when they make a little extra effort.

If you cannot afford the home care products, simply let your therapist know. Some products can be expensive, and there's nothing wrong with not being able to afford/purchase these products. If you're (still) embarrassed that you cannot afford the recommended home care products (or are just not interested), just simply say that you're not interested. 

If you have home care products and take good care of your skin, let your therapist know that you already have products. If you're still interested in home care, she should be able to help you fill the gaps in your regime. For example, you may use a cleanser, toner and moisturizer only, so ask about a suitable exfoliator, mask and/or sunscreen. Sunscreen is SUPER IMPORTANT!

Once the products have been purchased and you're not happy with it, call the salon/spa and let them know. If you've had a reaction, you can call, but I urge you to go back, so that they can see the reaction and determine the cause. They should either replace your products, or refund you. They should also be able to suggest a solution to your now "broken-out" skin, especially if they're not replacing your products with others that may help the situation. If they're not sure, and have never seen or had complaints about a reaction like yours, go to a dermatologist. If they were unable to solve the problem, and haven't followed up since you informed them about your reaction, find a new salon/spa, or a new therapist. A good therapist/spa/salon will make an effort to help you as much as they can, and even if they cannot remedy the situation themselves, they should follow-up and get your feedback. This is important for the relationship between you and your therapist/salon/spa as well as for future reference, should someone else have a similar reaction. Please, note that if you had a minimal to non-existent skin care routine before purchasing the products, that your skin may simply be adjusting. Sometimes, one may have underlying congestion due to poor skin care and poor lifestyle habits, so the products often bring all impurities to the surface before clearing them. Many professional products work at a deeper level. Have patience. This sort of reaction should clear within 4 weeks.

Having said that, don't expect results/improvement after using the products for a week. Many products will take approximately a month of continual use before you start seeing the results. This is because many (mainly professional and cosmeceutical/dermaceutical) products aim to work on a deeper level and affect your skin positively, from a cellular level.

Be patient and be gentle with your face.

Miss B

Fighting the Frizz

When it comes to hair, frizz  (and split ends) are the worst. For me, anyway. Apparently there's only so much you can do about split ends - trim it off! I know there are many products that claim to "repair" split ends, but that's total BS. I've tried many of them, some high-end "professional" products and some from Clicks, and got over it...because IT DIDN'T WORK! Hair is similar to skin, you have to be consistent and take care of it e-v-e-r-y-d-a-y (with an occasional trim...by a professional). There are no quick fixes that'll last forever.

As for the frizz, I've tried so many products, I don't remember half of it...which means at least that much didn't work and was forgettable.

I prefer mists and sprays as opposed to oils and serums, because I have finer hair, so serums tend to weigh me (my hair) down.

My favourite products for frizz-freedom:

1. MorrocanOil Treatment oil - for wash-and-go days. I use it whenever I know I'm not going to heat style my hair at all. Your hair needs a break. Put that GHD down, woman! It has a light scent, and makes my hair feel soft and smooth. [And my hands] Towel-dry hair, smooth it on, and put your hair in a bun, for a few hours. Loosen your hair a few hours before bed, so it can dry properly. This is assuming that you wash your hair in the morning/day-time.

2. L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Smooth Control gel-cream  - for blow-drying. It's a very light gel-cream, doesn't weigh hair down. You don't need to use much. I have long hair, and only need a pea-size amount. I felt the difference while drying my hair, and my hair definitely looked and felt a lot smoother. It was also more manageable, and I didn't need as much heat as I usually when blow-drying.

3. Lee Stafford Poker Straight Flat Iron Protection Shine Mist [breathes] - when using a flat iron. I hardly ever use my "flat iron" to "flatten/straighten" my hair. I mostly use it for curling my hair. Whether I've blow-dried my hair before using my flat-iron, and have used a heat protection spray before that, or curl my hair after it's air-dried, I mist my hair with this. It's also very light (see a trend here?), and literally smells like pink. If pink had a scent, this is what it'd smell like. Reminds me a lot of Charlie Pink (go figure) Heavy scent of vanilla/cake. Protection is very important, and although this isn't specifically an anti-frizz product, it does make a difference to the end result. Plus, you're getting a dose of anti-oxidants on your hair in the form of green tea extract.

4. Lee Stafford Poker Straight Dehumidifier - post-styling/pre-activity. An anti-frizz spray. When I saw this, I was like "sure, whatever." but bought it anyway. I am a girl at heart, and have hope after all. Although this is meant for straight-styled hair, which my hair wasn't,  I tried it. What gives. The bottle says to spray all over your hair before exercising, clubbing, bed, "facing the world". I tried it before clubbing last Friday. When I got home after 2 am, my hair looked pretty much the same as when I left home. Smooth and shiny. Not as neat though. And reeked of club... So the "pink/vanilla" smell doesn't outlast the smoke in a club, unfortunately. I also used it before exercising, and my hair didn't frizz quite as much as it usually does. If you have sensitive skin, tilt your head back and spray downwards, or ask someone to do it for you. I sprayed this from the front, and some had gone onto my forehead. Consequently, I have a few fine pimples on my forehead due to a reaction. Slightly itchy. [Trying very hard not to scratch]

5. V05 Miracle Mist - an overall of everything. Kind of. I thought this mist was magic the first time I used it, but it could've just been the fact that my patient mom blow-dried my hair for me (as I fell asleep) as opposed to me doing it...in a rush, as always. Don't judge me, I have weak arms...and heavy hair. Plus, my mom offered, ok?!  This is one of those do-it-all products. You can use it on damp hair, and go about your day. You can use it on damp hair before blow-drying it as a heat-defence, shine-enhancing, and anti-frizz mist. I suppose you could also use it on dry hair before styling. You can also use it AFTER drying/styling your hair as a shine and anti-frizz spray. You could do one of the above or all of the above. Out of all my faves, this product is the most versatile. It's also affordable.


Not every product is going to work the same for everyone. Unfortunately, sometimes you need to go through a few before you find what's great for you. Never be afraid to ask your hair-care professional about what's best for YOUR hair, if you're unsure. Or just curious.


Show your hair some love. A little bit more in winter. [flips hair forward and spins around...like in every hair advert. :-) ]

Miss B

A Boob Story with Perfect Endings

I have a slight obsession with taking care of myself. Yes, I'm sure I mean slight. I started "using" bust creams when I was about 17 years old. I didn't know why, but I saw my mom use it, and I visited her cupboard often and it was there. It was new, I had no idea what it was, so I read the entire tube...and squeezed some into my hand, and off I went. Bust cream. Whoohoo. I used it everyday for a week after that first time. To my horror, I broke out. All over my chest. [That's what you get for being over-eager.] I was convinced I could never wear a tank top again, and I was afraid that my mom would start locking her products away after she had told me repeatedly not to use her stuff. (Eye roll). That's what she did when I told her and showed her my chest, she rolled her eyes and laughed at me. She them told me that some things aren't meant for girls and she hoped that I had learnt my lesson. Check. 


After that I abstained, almost completely, from my mom's cupboard. I used regular body lotion, sometimes Bio Oil, on my décolletage. I always read about products and what they're meant to do and how it works. A lot of the time, I am left disappointed and feeling like I've wasted money. After trying Bio Oil everyday for a while, and breaking out quite similarly to the above story, I decided that perhaps the oil is too rich and went in search of a gel or creme-gel. Clarins Bust Beauty Extra-Lift Gel was next on my list. Did nothing. So here we are. I decided to re-visit the very bust cream that temporarily "ruined my life" a few years ago. (Dramatic much?)

Sh'zen Cellular Boost for Neck and Bust with Pamplemousse and Marula oils

I was/am pleasantly surprised. Firstly, NO breakouts whatsoever. I've been using the Sh'zen Perfect Endings Cellular Boost for Neck and Bust everyday for 2 weeks in upward, sweeping movements, and my decolletage looks more refined and my skin feels smoother. I've also noticed a "fading" of a scar (thanks to my puppy that loves to scratch me). 


I love the fresh, citrus scent. It smells like orange peel, but prettier. The only thing I don't love about it is that  the strong scent may interfere with one's perfume. If you love and wear citrus based fragrances, I'm sure it won't ruin it for you, but I like sweet scents, and can't imagine using the two together. For the last 2 weeks, I've been spritzing my perfume at the back of my neck, to avoid potential clashes. Also, when applying this in the morning, be sure to give it a few minutes to absorb and then apply sunscreen over it. YES, you have to. You know the sunscreen drill! [Resists digression.] It has a light-ish texture, and you need not squeeze out half the tube for adequate coverage.


For those interested in ingredients...it contains the following:

• Pamplemousse oils - tones&plumps up delicate skin, while firming breasts. Known as lymphatic stimulants&could help with breast tenderness and inflammation.
• Marula oils - rich in natural antioxidants which help repair damage to skin, also serves as anti-ageing.
• Shea Butter, Palm adn Sesame oils - deeply penetrating and intensely hydrating qualities. Improves elasticity

I haven't experienced any of the other good stuff such as firming and improved elasticity just yet. Well not that I can tell, anyway. But like I have mentioned before in the post about Clarins' bust gel, I don't have any serious bust issues, but I believe that prevention is better than cure, and hopefully all this busting around with boob products can delay the decline in this delicate area. 

Miss B

Sensitive? How to handle it...

Women's Health (US) have given advice to readers suffering with sensitive skin, in an article titled "Winterize your skin. Sensitive Skin: What you can do". I am not sure I entirely agree with everything, but below I have summarized the article and added in some other important points that were not mentioned or properly explained.

There is much debate about sensitive skin being a skin TYPE or a skin CONDITION. Women's Health quoted  Marianna Blyumin- Karasik, a dermatologist in Miami as saying,  "Women with sensitive skin have hyperactive immune systems that read certain products or weather conditions as enemies and fight them off as foreign objects.  This reaction often leads to skin redness, itching, stinging, burning, and peeling." By this characterization, sensitive skin is a skin TYPE. Sometimes, with the correct care, one may "grow out of" the sensitivity, or the skin will balance, heal and regulate itself. In that case, sensitive skin would be a skin condition, as it is not forever, it is just temporary. Note that "temporary" may be 3 months, 3 years or 13 years.

Experiencing skin redness, peeling, burning, stinging and/or itching does not necessarily mean that you have sensitive skin. It means you have symptoms of sensitive skin. This may be due to trying/using a new product that contains an ingredient that you are sensitive to. Consulting with a dermatologist or medical professional can't do harm, but if you know what you're sensitive to, or sometimes allergic to, simply avoid products that contain it.

Here are a few tips to help you:

1. Choose fragrance-free products. This may extended into you body care routine as well as household cleaning. Read product labels and select products that say "hypoallergenic", "formaldehyde-free", "dermatologically APPROVED". "dermatologically tested" is no longer good enough, it needs to be dermatologically approved.

2. Many cleansers contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate which is a foaming agent, detergent and surfactant, meaning it breaks down the glue that keeps/binds skin cells together. This glue is mostly necessary, and it prevents dryness and damage. Cleansers may also contain Tetrasodium EDTA and Triclosan which is drying. This isn't necessarily all bad, but most sensitive skins are already dry, and these worsen the condition. Use cleansers only if they are prescribed/recommended by your dermatologist or if they are specifically for sensitive skin. Sodium Laureth Sulfate is milder than Sodium LAURYL Sulfate so you may find that some "sensitive skin" cleansers may contain S.Laureth.Sulfate, but try to use one that contains neither. Note: these ingredients will be second or third from the top of the ingredients list.

3. Makeup irritants:

• Ultramarine blue - common in eyeshadow (especially blue hues)
• Mica - light-reflector, common in mineral makeup and bronzers,  known to cause itching.
• bismuth oxychloride - sheen/shimmer enhancer,  known to cause stinging.

There is probably many more and these ingredients are very commonly used, so it is hard to avoid, but Dr Zoe Draelos, a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University School of Medicine, suggests using neutral shades such as beige and brown as they contain less irritating chemical pigments. She also said, "Choosing liquid blushes, bronzers, and foundations (which aren't brushed on) will keep your skin placated," in Women's Health's USA March 2012 issue. Brushing on eyeshadow, blush, etc may irritate your skin, especially if you aren't gentle, and if your makeup accessories and brushes are on the hard side.

4. Environmental Factors. I always emphasize the importance of wearing sunscreen all year round. "Ultraviolet light mutates proteins in the skin, which damages skin cells and causes a red, stinging reaction known as photosensitivity." Annet King, director of global education for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute, recommends wearing a physical sunscreen that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as opposed to irritating chemical UV absorbers such as PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid), benzophenones, and cinnamates. If the climate where you live is very dry, it's best to use a moisture-rich humectant moisturizer that contains glycerin, and apply it immediately after cleansing/showering/bathing, and apply throughout the day if necessary.

5. Stop touching your face! Many people, sensitive skin or not, are guilty of this. Stop it. Just go cold turkey and stop it! You type, you text (think of all the surfaces your phone has touched), you touch the elevator buttons, then the office door, then you take someone's hand (who knows where they've been, what they've touched, when last they've washed their hands). No no no no NO! Don't put all that onto your skin.

6. Some makeup removers are not gentle enough for sensitive skin...even if they say they are. The only way to know if something is mild enough for you is to try it, so ask for samples, or buy it. I don't have sensitive skin, but I am still looking for an eye makeup remover that does not sting the skin around my eyes and sometimes burns my eyes. In this case, it is totally okay to use facial wipes instead. Many brands have a sensitive skin option. I love Good Things Total Wipe Out Cleansing Wipes, available at Clicks if you live in SA. It is biodegradable, and contains NO mineral oils, petrochemicals, parabens, sodium laureth (and lauryl) sulfate, and nothing has been derived from or tested on animals.

After removing your makeup with facial wipes, rinse your face and pat dry, before continuing with your skin care routine.

7. Slow down. Yes, you want to prevent/slow down signs of ageing being apparent on YOUR face, but be smart. Many anti-ageing products have skin-sensitizing ingredients in it, and many anti-ageing products are only meant to be used from a certain age. If you are not that age yet, leave it alone. Find something more appropriate for your age, skin type, skin condition, lifestyle. Rather concentrate on skin health as early as possible. Have a look at Environ and what they're about, and when in doubt consult a dermatologist.

Miss B

Beauty Profile: Sureshnie Rider

With a simple routine of cleansing and moisturizing twice daily, Sureshnie’s only learning to take care of her skin now. “Way too late, I know, but I always thought drinking lots of water would help.” The 5FM Top 40 host and 3 Talk with Noeleen production manager exfoliates regularly and tries to use a face mask at night. Sush, and her hubby also enjoy using nose-masks and she never goes to bed unless she’s removed all her makeup. Golden rule, ladies and gents.

When she left Durban for Johannesburg, her skin took a beating and irregular working hours did not encourage her to have a strict skin care regimen. After trying numerous well-known skin care brands, Sureshnie is currently using Nivea. “Nivea seems to be the one I love. It's clean and my skin feels light and less oily.” Also, it is super accessible and doesn’t require detour stops at salons. So she is trying to stick with it for the next 6 months. Sureshnie is also trying out Clarins Cotton Seed Gentle Face Wash and says it feels like silk. She changes products every 6-8 months out of personal preference. “Products are constantly changing on the market, as well as our lifestyles, so I try to go with what my body is saying to me.” She also goes for hydrating facials and a peel once in a while when she finds the time.

“Coming from an Indian upbringing, Ayurvedic medication and treatments have been part of my life. I have used many products that had sandalwood in it, and it really soothed my skin. My family still use Ayurvedic creams to treat skin conditions etc, and where I can, I still use home remedies before turning to store or pharmacy products.”

When asked about taking old school advice, listening to old wives tales or even tips shared with her by her mom/grandmother/aunt, Sureshnie had this to say:
“Tooth paste. Tooth paste. Tooth paste! It does NOT work! I was told that you should put toothpaste on pimples. Errrr... Not to be funny, it smelt really fresh, but it did squat for any pimple. But I tried
it...several times. I also tried the cucumber slice on my eyes. It is still widely practiced in most salons. It did cool my eyelids for a bit, but then I felt like adding an olive and enjoying it while I lay there,” she said while giggling.

Her favourite skin care product? Elizabeth Arden Skin Protectant for lips. “This has been my friend for years, and I have carried that little jar in my bag to get me through late night gigs, bad and sad days and for every moment that I have smiled.”

Sureshnie’s top 5 skin care tips:

1. Keep things natural. Try not to overload your skin with a million products, start with the basics.
2. Drink lots of Water
3. Avoid a product that does three in one, chances are it does nothing for you
4. Make time for a facial
5. Always remove make up before bed

Sureshnie says that this is the most makeup she's ever worn.

Mrs Rider likes very natural makeup and says all a girl needs is a light foundation, a little shimmer on the eyelids, liquid eyeliner, mascara and a soft lip gloss. She’s still discovering her signature makeup look, but insists on keeping it “clean”. Her focus is always on her eyes. “I never wore make up until I was in my late twenties. I grew up loving the natural feel of my skin, and I'm hoping to instill that same belief in my daughter,” said Sureshnie. “Water, healthy foods and sunscreen is all she needs.” Sureshnie’s biggest concern is skin cancer, and makes sure that her family is always stocked up on sunscreen...and more importantly USE the sunscreen on a daily basis.

Like every other girl, Sureshnie battles to answer the question “Which ONE makeup product can you not go a day without?” Her answer: “My bag full of Mac and Bobbi Brown eye-shadows”. I suppose, technically, her bag is ONE object. We’ll give it to you this time, Sush.

Sureshnie on her wedding day. She said that this was her most special day of makeup. Her hair and makeup were done by Mark and Clint. They also draped her sari. 

Miss B: What is important when getting ready to attend an event?

Sureshnie: “Your scent, your body lotion, your accessories and your hair. If you take time to pay a little attention to all it’s amazing how you begin to glow. I always turn up my music and it usually helps me pick out my best dress, and then from there, it all SOMETIMES falls into place.”

If Sush is not on air, running around at the 3 Talk studio, behind the decks at clubs or behind the wheel of a very fast car, you can find her at home (good luck getting that address) cooking up a storm...which is also a very good way of steaming your face. ;-)

Miss B