Tuesday 28 January 2014

#BeautyTipTuesday: Skip the Steam

image source: cygstarz.hubpages.com

Along with many others, I thought steaming was great for skin. Turns out, not so much.

The reasons I studied about why steaming was good for skin made a lot of sense to me at the time: softens surface debri making it easier to remove, opens pores for better product penetration, prepares the skin for the next step of a facial routine and is essential for products that are activated by heat and moisture. Sigh. Firstly, pores aren't doors: you can't open and close them as you wish with hot or cold water. Secondly, a good water-soluble cleanser can remove surface debri just fine. Product penetration is another post all on it's own. The only products that are activated by heat and/or moisture, that I can think of right now anyway, are some enzyme exfoliants and perhaps a mask. And I can think of less harsh ways to get both heat and moisture. Wet fingertips, anyone?

Steam is irritating to the skin, and can cause or worsen redness and result in inflammation. The heat can cause major discomfort, not to mention burns if used incorrectly. It can also cause broken capillaries that will appear similar to Telangiectasia (dilated blood vessels close to the surface of the skin).

Telangiectasia. Image source: doctorv.ca

 I've never seen telangiectasia this pronounced (or on the top of the nose area) on a client. It's more commonly found at the sides of the nose: supra alar crease, nostril and alarfacial groove. Image source: doctorv.ca

Steam CAN'T add moisture to your skin. You can't add moisture to your skin by soaking it in water. This breaks down the intercellular matrix which keeps skin cells bonded and functioning, creating a natural barrier. And we know that barrier function is one of the most important functions of the skin as it provides protection against moisture loss, bacteria/microbial invasion, irritation, inflammation and discomfort (among others), while supporting healing due to injury. The skin is such a wonderful organ. Steaming your face disturbs the intercellular matrix, which may result in dry skin because there is no longer protection against moisture loss.

Next time you go for a facial, give the steam a skip and ask the therapist why she uses it (out of curiosity). Yes, steam has been shown to be relaxing, but are you going for a facial for the sole purpose of relaxing? Heard of massage?

Remember: steam doesn't penetrate and cleanse your pores, and it defs doesn't add moisture.

Miss B

P.s. You know how after steaming, your face is wet? Your skin was obvs crying. Because steam is a meanie.

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